We ventured westward on a recent Sunday morning to check out the Bellville-Round Top-Brenham triangle, one of the closer areas to Houston that offers some escape from urban living.   We'd heard for years about this popular, pie touting restaurant, located in a town best known for this eating destination and its antique markets.

Even on a rainy Sunday afternoon, we had a wait of about 15 minutes.   The tables seem to turn quickly, so don't be deterred.  The restaurant is a small, cozy venue, housed in a ramshackle old building on the square in Round Top.  On nicer days, the front porch has old metal drink coolers filled with beer and soft drinks you purchase on the honor system.  Decorated with kitschy memorabilia, including framed reviews and pictures of famous diners, it's ruled over by owner Bud Royer, a genial version of Seinfeld's soup Nazi.  One of us tends to be picky about table location, but this would not be the place to be particular.

Although the locale suggests country cooking, the menu is much more upscale.  There's no chicken fried steak to be had.  There are many offerings, all of which sounded great.  To quickly address our hunger from the ride (about 1 1/2 hours from Houston),  we shared a boneless bacon-wrapped quail stuffed with shrimp and spinach.  Quail is somewhat of a hit or miss item.  It's easy to screw up the little buggers.  But this was one of the best versions we've ever had.  Served sizzling hot, the meat was moist and flavorful.  We then sampled the Sunday-only pan fried chicken.  (The menu advises that no fries are available on Sunday due to the extensive frying required for the chicken, and to come early as they run out of chicken quickly.)  For only $10.95, we got four large pieces.  Don't ask for particular pieces--you get a chest (the menu's description, not ours), leg, thigh, and wing.   The chicken was delicious and worth the calories.  It was sided by the best creamed corn we'd ever eaten and some delicious skins on mashed potatoes.  (No side substitutions, and a $4.95 charge to share.)  We also tried the grilled shrimp BLT; a highlighted item on the menu that features large grilled shrimp served on french bread with creole mustard.  It was good, but there are other items we'd order if we returned.

Although feeling quite full, we shouldered on to the café's claim to fame -- pies.  There are numerous offerings, all served, without any extra charge, with a scoop of "BBHV."  (That's Blue Bell Homemade Vanilla for the uneducated.)   Needless to say, we had to try at least one piece, so we went for the signature chocolate chip pie.   Served warm, it tasted as the menu described, like a chocolate chip cookie, only better.  

The restaurant attracts an eclectic crowd -- locals, country cruising Harley riding urbanites, and families with children in tow.  There's no dress code (per the website "no shirts, no shoes, no problem -- just spend money").  Only cash and checks are taken.

On the Square in Round Top
877/866-PIES (7437)
http://www.royersroundtopcafe.com/