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Max's Wine Dive
This entry was posted on 3/5/2008 10:14 AM and is filed under Casual Chic - Jeans Allowed.
UPDATED REVIEW: MARCH 2008
We weren't sure what to expect since we knew that the original hot shot young chef had left Max's Wine Dive, going to the Cordua Restaurant Group for what can be assumed were big corporate bucks. Although we'd read that the sous chef was carrying on the same menu concept, we were disappointed to find that the menu lacked a number of the dishes we had enjoyed previously or had looked forward to trying on another visit. (For example, the veal cheese steak, although it's on the menu posted on the website.) There were new items, but the menu just didn't stir the same excitement as we'd experienced on our first visit. We consider ourselves adventurous eaters, but fried pig ears didn't appeal.
Because of the concern with crowds, we went late on a Sunday afternoon. No waiting required; in fact, we got one of the cherished booths. We don't know if this was unique to Sunday or if the crowds have gravitated elsewhere (such as down the street to Soma). One benefit of our timing is that we enjoyed half price glasses of selected wines. And we did have a celebrity sighting -- one of the bearded guys from ZZ Top. Don't know which one as they both look the same to us. (One of us has a conspiracy theory that there only exists one bearded guy in ZZ Top, and they created an elaborate hoax through a complex mirror scheme.)
We started with the Texas-grown tomato salad with cucumbers, pickled onions, and blue cheese. It was a very healthy portion for the price and the tomatos were admirably tasty given the time of year. We moved on to the buttermilk fried chicken and kobe beef hot dog. We got half a fried chicken, nicely cooked, sided with mashed potatos and greens, although we can't recall ever having paid $18 for a fried chicken dinner. The kobe beef hot dog was basically a very good hot dog, served with venison chili; the fries continued to be a standout. Unfortunately, those fries, served Quebexas style, that we scarfed down previously are nowhere to be found on the menu.
We enjoyed our meal but were disappointed with the lack of creativity we were craving. Needless to say, we probably won't be rushing back soon.
FIRST REVIEWED: MARCH 2007
Having barely been able to get past the crowds clustered around the door on a recent Saturday evening, we picked a Tuesday night to try this new and wildly popular wine bar and restaurant on Washington near Shepherd. We managed to get the last two seats at the bar and settled in to our own version of a tasting menu of upscale, imaginative Texas inspired diner food.
Brought to you by the same folks that own the Tasting Rooms, this is a new concept in wine bars. Don't expect the somewhat refined atmosphere of other wine bars. This place is hopping, with as much emphasis on food as wine. Indeed, given the menu, the wine almost takes a backseat to the food, although there are many good, reasonably priced choices. Just a note--they only serve beer and wine.
Now for the food. There's a long menu of an amazingly eclectic mix of dishes -- everything from tuna tartare to pancakes with fried chicken wings. We started with the mussels steamed in Lone Star beer with limes, chilies, and cream, served with Texas Toast. Yum. We moved on to the tuna tartare, the flavors of which were much more subtle than some of the other menu items, but fresh and delicious. The wasabi flavored caviar was a great touch. We then tried the Three Big Balls, which, while not as inventive as many of the dishes, were a tasty, very large version of meatballs served with a tomato sauce. We finished with the Quebexas, a Texas version of chili cheese fries --Max's Frites topped with venison chili, gruyere and truffle cheese sauce, and two fried eggs! The plate was so large and towering that everyone at the bar stared as the waitress carried it in our direction. But, not to be deterred (or embarrassed), we persevered through a delicious mess of food, with particularly good venison chili; the subtle cheese sauce got lost in the mix. If that wasn't enough, we tried a side of Max and Cheese -- tubular corkscrew pasta with the aforementioned cheese sauce. This decadent version of the ultimate comfort food, together with the meatballs, made great leftovers for dinner the next night.
Readers take note, despite the great food, the atmosphere is as much that of a bar as a restaurant. There is limited seating, particularly for two to four persons. There are a number of booths that appear to be available, at least during peak dining hours, only for groups of six for which they'll take a reservation. There are no four tops and the only tables for two are a few small round cafe style tables along the front window. Now that the weather is nicer, there is some seating on the sidewalk outside. There's also a "communal table" at the back that looks like it can be separated for smaller parties. Lacking a table, you get the bar where they will gladly serve you food. We understand that, at popular times, the wait for any type of table can be hours. Otherwise, you play the hover and pounce game at the bar, trying to guage who is going to leave.
The great food and many menu items that we didn't have a chance to try will bring us back, probably sooner than later, and also likely on a weeknight. Or, even better, we'll get a group together, reserve a booth, and settle in for the evening.
4720 Washington
713/880-8737
http://www.friedchickenandchampagneaftermidnight.com/
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