It took us too long to make it to this restaurant within a restaurant at Haven.  Cove Cold Bar is the baby of its chef, Jean Phillipe Gaston, who artfully presents his virtually all raw dishes in a glassed in area near the front of Haven.  We called to make a reservation and the hostess graciously pointed us to a website where, at that time, for $95, we got a coupon for two six-course meals.  We were told that reservations were only available when having a multi-course meal and that seating was at the raw bar.  All that sounded good to us.

The menu is divided into a a number of cleverly titled categories -- Smalls, Bowls, Pacific, Americas, Europe/Med/Africa, Four Legs, Dairy and Stickies -- and the menu offerrings are well described within each category.  Our coupon let us order from all of the categories except Bowls and Dairy.  With three to four items in each category, we were able to try much of the menu which made for a great experience.  Sitting at the raw bar, we saw the chefs at work, armed with sushi knifes and tweezers, fronted by a huge palette of a multitude of tiny items to grace the various plates.
 
Understandably, the focus is on seafood.  There wasn't a miss among all the plates we tried.  Each dish was beautifully presented, with dabs of sauce and, depending on the dish, tiny pieces of chile, fruit, herbs, and veggies. There's clearly been alot of research and thought put into each plate.  Our favorites -- sashimi (Pacific), citrus marinated lionfish (Pacific), quick cured salmon (Americas), and the marinated and grilled octopus with a wonderful arugula aioli (Europe).  We enjoyed but weren't as impressed by the two Four Legs items we tried -- lamb heart carpaccio (kudos for the ambition and the effort to prepare the dish, starting with a frozen piece of heart, carefully sliced to order) and the classic steak tartare (overly seasoned).  The chocolate mousse was a lush ending to the meal.

Service was great.  They didn't try to rush us.  We ordered course by course.  And sipped on some tasty cocktails and beer, all of which paired well with the raw items.

2502 Algerian Way
713/581-6101
http://www.havenhouston.com/cove/

Update:  September 2013

This restaurant had a fire and is not currently open.


First Reviewed:  June 2013

                                   Fish So Very Fresh
                                An Oasis In This Heat
                                     This is MF Good

This sushi newcomer has made quite a splash as its chef/owner, Chris Kinjo, ports his magic from Atlanta to an unassuming strip center at the corner of Westheimer and Fountainview.  Perhaps we were behind the foodie curve, but we first heard about this curiously named place when we read that a number of local chefs were touting the freshness of the fish and the chef's deft knife skills.  That was quickly followed by Alison Cook's four star rating.  Out we went one recent Saturday evening to sit at the sushi bar and try the Omakase (chef's pleasure) dinner.

Unlike Uchi or Kata Robata, this Omakase dinner was all about raw fish -- either sashimi or nigiri, no rolls.  There are a few hot dishes on the menu, but this is a traditional sushi restaurant, not Asian fusion.  And we had an amazing experience.  From start to finish, the fish was fabulously fresh.  While our helpful and efficient waitress gave us a dish of freshly grated wasabi, which was quite a treat, we only used soy sauce and wasabi on one of the many courses.  Not sure how many dishes we had, we weren't counting, just eating.   The initial dish was a delicious warm seaweed soup into which we stirred a raw quail egg yolk.  The chef then started us off with a variety of sashimi dishes, simply presented, with little adornment.  The salmon belly was a particular highlight.  We'd read that the chef really shines with nigiri.  The dewy fish lay on lightly formed grains of rice with a hint of wasabi and soy sauce, arriving with instructions from the chef to eat in one bite.  Multiple bites came our way and we followed instructions well, enjoying everything we tried.

In the interest of journalism, we separately ordered the fried calamari for dessert.  It was nicely done and, if variety is our goal on our next visit to MF Sushi, we'll consider ordering one or more hot dishes and perhaps one of the beautifully presented rolls we saw the kitchen turn out.  But the real reason to come to MF Sushi is for the raw fish, served in all its pristine wonder.

5887 Westheimer
832/530-4321
http://mfsushihouston.com/

Not exactly an out of town destination, it did take us a while to get outside the Beltway on Memorial to this much lauded pizza place.  Open for a year or so now, this very casual, BYOB, made such a hit out right out of the box that it was up for best new restaurant in My Table's 2012 culinary awards.  And, while it didn't win, it's been so successful that the owner is looking for locations inside the Loop.

Pizza making is practically a competitive sport nowadays, with so many new places opening or old ones putting in pizza ovens.  While a wood burning oven seems to be a requirement, beyond that each place has its special preferences (frequently researched in the motherland, giving the owners an guilt-free opportunity to eat their way through Italy) for flour, tomatoes, cheese and, even, water.  We don't profess to understand the nuances in flour types, but we do know what tastes good (at least to us).  And Pizzaro's is pretty darn tasty.

Turned out in 90 seconds from the wood burning oven that heats up to 900 degrees, these pizzas are thin, slightly crispy and lightly topped.  Pizzaro's does not do delivery, and they recommend against take-out.  The pizza is best eaten immediately out of the oven.

Four of us concluded that four bottles of wine (the value of BYOB cannot be overstated) paired quite nicely with four different pizzas.  (Salads are offered and likely are quite fine, but we'd made the trek for the good stuff.)  The favorite of two of us was the Fino (olive oil, cured fennel sausage, goat cheese, garlic and mozzarella).  But we also very much enjoyed the Polpette (tomato sauce, meat balls, ricotta and mozzarella); Campania (tomato sauce, roasted crimini mushrooms, artichokes, proscuitto, black olives and mozzarella); and Calabrese (tomato sauce, spicy sopressata, pepperoni, mozzarella and basil).  The crust on the pizza is thin and delicate,  a great taste,  with just a slight softness in the middle and crisp around the outside, perfect for edge-eating and not just leaving on the plate as an afterthought.  All ingredients were quite fresh and the toppings were well balanced on the pizza, not over-weighting the pizza but also not skimpy.

On the Friday evening we visited, the place was pretty busy, but the owner told us it was a quiet night.  So, do as we did, get there early, open your wine, and eat a bunch of pizza.  You'll be glad you did.

14028 Memorial Drive
281/589-7277
http://www.pizarospizza.com/

We've been fortunate to have had great weather for outside dining on the two evenings we've spent at this new spot on Richmond in the Montrose area.  From Shepard Ross, the same restauranteur that owns Glass Wall, the focus of this place is on outside dining and drinking, going for the vibe that the owner remembers from his time growing up in Brooklyn.  Hence, alot of open space, opposite the dining area, filled with bocce ball, croquet, badminton, picnic tables, and the like.  Due to the venues immediate popularity, the outdoor bar service is being expanded and a food truck is soon to open in the games area.  There are a couple fire pits we'd heard were for s'mores, although we haven't seen that use as drinkers and diners lacking reservations have sought a place to sit.

There's a small bar area and about 10 indoor tables in close quarters.  Dining reservations are definitely required, specifying indoor or outdoor.  We dined on the earlier side, and, on both evenings, despite a busy scene, our reservations were honored on time.  (By the time we were leaving, the valet parkers were asking if you had a reservation.)  Commendations to the on-the-ball hostess who clearly has things under control, understanding that the tables, particularly outdoors, are not going to turn as often as other restaurants as diners come to hang out and enjoy the patio scene.  We've had very good wait service on both visits.  

While we wouldn't call Brooklyn Athletic Club fine dining, the menu is more ambitious and varied than typical bar fare.  We haven't had a bad dish.  We've yet to see a table in our vicinity not order the short rib mac 'n cheese, whether as a starter (as it's billed) or as a small entree.  And we've had it twice and, yes, it's very tasty and comes out piping hot.  And we'll have it again.   We've also tried the pork rillettes, which were enjoyable, nice for sharing, and benefitting from a little added salt.  The cheese burger is a justifiably popular dish, sided with crispy thin frites, with optional bacon or a fried egg.  We've also tried the pappardelle and meat balls, generously portioned, with good flavors, and a sufficient ratio of meat sauce to pasta (i.e., not skimpy on the sauce).  The porkobucco, which, as its name inplies, is a slow cooked pork shank, was also nicely flavored (perhaps a little underseasoned), sided with a tasty mixture of braised brussel sprouts, mushrooms, fingerling potatos, and crispy bacon pieces.  Unfortunately, the fat and gristle that are typical to the shank resulted in less edible  portions than the initial hunk-o-meat presentation on the plate might have suggested.

Brooklyn Athletic Club is a great venue when the weather accommodates.  We're not sure how things will go as we approach the summer months.  The outside bar area should still attract the very casual, drinking crowd willing to sweat a little.  We're not so sure about the dining crowd which, on both our visits, was quite diverse in age.  While we've enjoyed the food and will return, we may wait until Fall as the indoor seating area is cramped (one friend called it claustrophobic).  And the single person bathrooms (only one for each gender) need expansion, which we understand is underway with additional outside facilities being built. 

601 Richmond Avenue
713/527-4440
http://thebrooklynathleticclub.com/

From the same folks that have Del Frisco's Steakhouse in the Galleria comes their new direction in dining in the West Ave complex.  Located where Ava was formerly housed, significant renovations have resulted in one of the current "places to be" in Houston.  This is a large space, with many tables for dining (including patios on the Kirby side and the interior of the complex) and an expansive bar area.  Reservations are a must, at least on weekends.

Del Frisco's is not our favorite Houston steakhouse.  We understand this is a more casual, less expensive concept being rolled out by the Del Frisco's folks (initially in Dallas), and we weren't sure what to expect.  Our reservations were honored right on time which is a good thing as there was no room anywhere for waiting.  The waitstaff was very busy, but service was good.

One of the selling points of this restaurant is its varied and extensive menu choices.  If you want traditional steakhouse fare (at the same prices), there are a few steak offerrings.  And plenty of appetizers, salads (appetizer and meal sized), and sandwiches and entrees (not at steakhouse prices).  We dined with friends and tried two of the most popular appetizers -- the cheesesteak egg rolls and tuna tartare tacos.  Del Frisco's Grille managed to elevate these ubiquitous items to a pretty high level.

One of the highlights of the meal was the kale & brussel sprout "Big Greens" salad.  Chocked full of the aforementioned vegetables with toasted almonds, manchego cheese, dried cranberries, and a yummy creole mustard dressing, this salad alone is worth a trip to the restaurant.  The entrees also impressed.  There wasn't a speck left on one diner's plate of a very generously portioned serving of blackened texas gulf red fish (topped with fried oysters).  The lamb burger was nicely seasoned and appropriately cooked, sided with crispy frites. 

For what they're trying to accomplish, the Del Frisco folks are doing a very good job, and we look forward to returning.  Get there when you can.  Just be sure to make a reservation or expect to fight with the throngs for a seat at the bar.

2800 Kirby Drive
832/266-0464
http://info.delfriscosgrille.com/houston/

We'd heard good things about this ambitious new Bellaire neighborhood restaurant.  Located in a strip shopping center that houses one of the areas long-time restaurants (Auntie Pasta), Costa Brava's food offerings have a decidedly upscale French or Spanish orientation.  This is a small space, with reservations required on weekends.  There's plenty of parking either in the front or back of the center.

We admit we're not always easy to please and can be critical diners.  And, while being able to hear oneself speak, having a comfortable cozy vibe, and not worrying too much about what you're wearing, are definite positives, if the food doesn't excite us, we'll not likely return.  Unfortunately, we weren't impressed with any of the dishes that we had.  We're huge fried calamari fans, but the skimpy portion and average quality didn't do much for us.  Given the Spanish leanings of the restaurant, we had high hopes for the paella, but, in addition to not being served in the traditional paella dish (more like seafood risotto in a pasta bowl), the lackluster spices didn't compliment the generous portion of nicely cooked seafood.  The duck two ways (duck breast and confit hash) was also okay but not quite up to the mark.  The confit hash was practically cold (literally, slightly colder than the room temperature of the restaurant), and we sent it back, only to have the whole plate put in some type of heater that proceeded to overcook the previously nicely done medium rare breast.

The dining crowd was definitely on the older side, and we're sure they'll continue to come for a small, comfortable place close to many residential areas.  Perhaps the kitchen is trying a little too hard or perhaps the overall good press this restaurant has received, resulting in high demand, has caused some inconsistencies in the kitchen.

5115 Bellaire Boulevard
713/839-1005
http://www.costabravabistro.com/