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We've been remiss in not writing about this new restaurant that we've now visited twice. When we heard that the owners (the guys from Ibiza and Brasserie 19) were converting the former Catalan location to an Italian restaurant, we had to wonder what they were thinking in that Houston has more than enough Italian dining opportunities, with the now ubiquitous brick oven turning out various versions of "authentic" Italian-style pizza. But, judging by the crowds, we have yet another Italian success story.
Reservations are a must, particularly on a Saturday evening. Despite the crowds, our reservations were honored on time, as was as our requested preferred seating. We've had excellent service on both visits. We started with nicely done cocktails, both times the same -- a ginger spiced manhattan and a blackberry martini -- since we enjoyed them so much the first time. And, true to the owners' reputation, we found a bottle of Chappellet Mountain Cuvee priced about the same as retail. (It was available on both our visits, so we hope we haven't sparked a run on it or a price increase.)
We've tried three appetizers -- whipped mortadella crostini, pate, and burrata. Not sure we'd have the mortadella (Italian bologna) again, but we're glad we tried it. The housemade pate was good but a little on the sweet side; both choices that evening had a dried fruit spin. The housemade pickles were very nicely done. The burrata was a standout. Generously served and very creamy, the cheese was delicious. Sided by a coppa-topped salad and Campari cherry tomatoes, it was an all around winner.
On our second visit we tried the much ballyhooed pizza (imported flour, special water, etc.). We couldn't help but be intrigued by a pizza called "coppa 'ham & eggs,'" billed as featuring spicy air-dried pork shoulder and quail eggs. It just didn't work for us. We dare to suggest that there wasn't much flavor to the pizza. We assume the tomato sauce (slightly sweet, simple) and minimalist cheese are intentional to the style, but the pork topping also lacked flavor, not to mention spice. The quail eggs were a fun novelty but didn't add much to the taste. We'll head to Dolce Vita, maybe Alto or Piola, for pizza and stick to the other items at Coppa.
We'd heard the chef earned her job by making spaghetti carbonara, so we had to try it. We found the dish very enjoyable, perhaps a little peppery, but richly sauced by the egg and cheese mixture, loaded with lots of salami (not the typical pancetta, but it worked). There are a large variety of other pastas, many homemade, that have looked very good when they've passed our table.
The restaurant does not feature many entrees, only four or so each night, emphasizing appetizers, pizza, and pasta. But one of the entrees -- the chicken "under a brick" -- was so good that we had it both nights. The pizza oven is turning out something for which we'll be back. Served on top of parmesan polenta, the lemon and herb infused baby chicken was plump and juicy on the inside, with the crispy skin that's a required component of brick chicken. Probably the best version of this dish we've ever tried. (Sorry, but this one puts Carrabba's and Grotto's versions to shame.)
Catalan was one of our favorite Houston restaurants (we're greatly looking forward to Underbelly), but we're impressed the Ibiza guys could do it yet again. And with Italian, nonetheless.
5555 Washington
713/426-4260
http://copparistorante.com/ |
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| Posted by CarlosandDebbi at | | | |
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The folks who own the well-regarded Ray's in Fulshear have ventured inside the Loop to the former location of Ziggy's Healthy Grill. The restaurant has taken off like a shot, packed from its opening. Reservations are highly suggested, at least on weekends. They've done a very nice job reconfiguring the space into a warm, contemporary environment, with a large open kitchen. There's a bar area that includes seating for dining.
We started in the bar with a couple signature cocktails featuring sorrel -- the confetti lemon drop martini and the lemon sorrel manhattan. We enjoyed both but not sure the addition of sorrel to these classic cocktails improved matters.
Our reservation was honored on time. Service was a little harried but nothing to complain about. The house-made foccacia bread, served with olive oil, sundried tomato, and sorrel pesto dipping sauces, was a welcome start to the evening.
Consistent with the farm to table concept and the use of locally sourced ingredients, the menu changes regularly as the starters we tried -- the ceviche cocktail, rabbit risotto, and the clams and mussels in ancho chile broth -- aren't currently listed on the website. The ceviche was the better of the two, light and tasty. The chile broth was rich and flavorful and, to the dish's credit, it was not overly heavy. Just not sure it worked all that well with the seafood. We then shared the tomato salad with local cheese; the basil oil dressing was nicely done, but the tomatoes were lacking in taste. (It's tough to find a good tomato, even in restaurants priding themselves in using local ingredients; the exception recently was a tomato salad at Reef.) For an entree, we shared the pan seared flounder on barley, which was the highlight of the evening. Piping hot, beautifully cooked, this was a great dish.
We look forward to returning, particularly given the ever changing menu.
2202 West Alabama
713/677-0391
http://www.sorrelhouston.com/ |
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| Posted by CarlosandDebbi at | | | |
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We'd been hearing great things about this now one year old restaurant south of town. GPS in hand, we headed down 288, landing at a modest location just off the main drag in what appeared to be downtown Alvin. Befitting its locale, there's nothing trendy or hip about this restaurant. Just good food, based on local offerrings, produced by an up and coming young chef, Jason Chaney.
We tried two starters -- country fried oysters and stuffed quail. The fried oysters, which have justifiably received alot of great press, were expertly fried served on top of house cured thick slab bacon, topped with house pickled jalapenos. Yum. Those jalapenos were so tasty, we had to ask for more. The sausage stuffed quail was flavorful, well sauced, and very nicely done. One of the better versions of that dish we've had as of late.
There are a variety of standard menu items, and then the restaurant offers a number of meat and seafood specials, based on what's available that day. These items are served simply grilled or sauteed, no sauces and no sides. The Kobe flat iron steak was absolutely delicious and perfectly cooked. The sauteed duck breast was also perfectly cooked, but the lack of any sauce put a damper on the dish. We requested that the chef add anything he thought would work, but nothing appeared on the plate. The mac-n-cheese was a very good but not great rendition of this uber-popular side.
Immediately next door is an open air hamburger joint owned by the same folks. It looked a little warm the evening we were there, but the family-friendly atmosphere likely makes this a popular destination in this small community.
We made a reservation for a Saturday night which was advisable. Parking is right in front of the restaurant (yea, no valet!). Our waiter was a local kid who managed just fine. The wine choices were limited but reasonably priced.
We may not make it back soon, but it was certainly worth the trip to check it out.
113 East Sealy Street, Alvin, Texas
281/585-2272
http://barbedrose.com/ |
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| Posted by CarlosandDebbi at | | | |
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CLOSED AUGUST 2011
We were way past due getting our butts out to Tomball to try Bootsie's Cafe. We'd heard such great things about the place and were already familiar with its chef, Randy Rucker, previously at Laidback Manor and a brief stint at the Rainbow Lodge. We ended up arriving the night that the just shuttered restaurant was having its staff and friends appreciation dinner. We had to write this review because we were welcomed so graciously and fed quite wonderfully, without any charge. And we didn't know a soul in the place (and they didn't know about this website); they were just being hospitable.
Given the circumstances, there's no point commenting on the decor or service or how long it took us to drive out there. We'll get straight to the food as we assume it's indicative of what the chef (and his team) will bring out at the new place (see further details below). We loved everything we were served from the beef and vension tenderloin (both very well cooked) and served with some of the best tomatoes we have ever had in Houston, to the whole fried snapper and braised pork shoulder (nicely cooked, tender and well seasoned), the brisket en croute, the corkscrew pasta with ragu, the smoked trout mousse (which was amazing, served on a chilled spoon and cleverly accessorized), the watermelon/cucumber granita, and a liverwurst sausage (enjoyed by the one of us that doesn't typically enjoy liver). And the sweets -- a savory wholewheat shortbread cookie with lemon curd (just awesome, could not stop eating them), oatmeal/chocolate chip bar, lemon cake, and peach crisp (another great dessert, served piping hot).
We know this restaurant had a tough time making a go of it in Tomball (probably too ahead of its time for the clientele), and we sorely wish we'd make it out there sooner. (We understand that a different incarnation of Bootsie's will be taking its place.) In the meantime, the chef, Randy Rucker, is teaming up with an investor to open a new restaurant in Houston's Museum District. We'll be eagerly awaiting the new restaurant and will make sure not to wait to get to it. |
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| Posted by CarlosandDebbi at | | | |
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It's difficult to characterize the menu at this recent dining addition to the West Ave complex from the RDG folks. There's a little something for everybody -- salads, grilled meats, pastas. (No pizza, that's upstairs at its sister restaurant, Alto.) Most everything we've tried has been okay; nothing has knocked our socks off, and there have been a few disappointments.
Starting with the good parts -- the restaurant is quite lovely with a warm, contemporary vibe. The floor to ceiling windows along Westheimer add light and a little drama. Like so many restaurants, there's not a soft surface to be found, which lends to some noise. And the place has been quite busy on all our visits, so the noise level is high. Service has been friendly and attentive on every visit. And reservations have been honored on time. Prices are reasonable, with no entree over the low to mid $20's. The menu is clearly designed for those wanting just a bite to eat or a full meal, and we've never felt uncomfortable just ordering an appetizer or salad.
Food highlights have included the crab meat cocktail, white bean soup (on one occasion, not so much the other), bacon roasted pork tenderloin, and a fruit tart. Well executed, but nothing extraordinary, items have been the cheeseburger (and somewhat soggy fries), wedge salad, marinated mushroom salad, and a couple pasta dishes (bolognese and duck & wild mushrooms). The lamb t-bone chops were thin and fatty, leaving not enough edible meat, and the roasted stuffed squid didn't do it for us (too chewy).
If you're looking for a fun, happening place with a wide menu choice, give Ava a try. If you're more into great food than atmosphere, you may be disappointed, but you'll still enjoy the experience.
2800 Kirby Drive
713/386-6460
http://www.avaalto.com/
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| Posted by CarlosandDebbi at | | | |
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Cheese, glorious cheese.
Chips, salsa and queso
Tex-Mex that we long for
Screw the reviews, just go
If Oliver and his fellow orphans had been fed El Real's Tex-Mex Fare, they would have found sufficient sustenance to pick half the pockets in London. While the Caswell/Floyd/Walsh culinary creations may not have been available in the Dickens era, we're lucky to have in Houston this new contribution to Texas' most beloved cuisine. (Apologies to those who consider barbecue to be the state food of Texas.)
Managing expectations is a key to many things in life. We didn't go to El Real expecting the Tex-Mex version of Reef or Stella Sola. Not even sure we could have figured out what that would be. Probably a culinary oxymoron. And, while we've enjoyed meals at both those restaurants, we don't consider them to be a barometer for measuring great food. It seemed more important to us that the former Houston Press restaurant critic and book author, Robb Walsh, was involved in El Real's development. Which makes it all the more surprising that a Houston Press food blogger recently trashed pretty much every aspect of a Happy Hour experience at El Real. And the foodie websites have received plenty of comments about this place. It's amazing how touchy people are about their Tex-Mex.
For the record, we had a great experience at El Real. We arrived later in the evening on a Saturday night. We were greeted warmly at the door, given a number of seating options, and quickly brought water, chips and salsa. The salsa has been slammed by a number of commentators. It's not spicy or chunky like a pico de gallo style salsa. It's smokier and thinner. But "tomato water" is not a fair characterization. We also understand (but didn't try) that, upon request, they'll bring you a much spicier salsa. The chips were fresh and who cares about salsa anyway when you can dip your chip in El Real's yummy queso.
Not having got enough of the queso, we ordered the now almost famous # 7 cheese enchiladas topped with more of the stuff. (That's a # 10.) The enchiladas were absolutely delicious, served piping hot, and so amazingly rich that we couldn't handle much more than a few bites. (Great leftovers.) Sided by lard enriched refried beans and fluffy rice, these enchiladas are worth the trip alone. We also tried the puffy tacos (beef and pork) and enjoyed them. We aren't puffy taco afficianados, so we couldn't compare them to the San Antonio version about which everyone raves.
There's no question we'll be back to El Real.
1201 Westheimer
713/524-1201
http://elrealtexmex.com/
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| Posted by CarlosandDebbi at | | | |
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We're frequently seeking somewhere new that stays open late so we can dine after the theater or ballet. Alto fits that bill, and we stopped in one recent Saturday evening. We aren't big fans of the RDG enterprise offerrings, having not even reviewed RDG on this blog. But we like pizza, and we live not far from the new West Ave center. With the restaurant's pedigree, we weren't sure what to expect in terms of the crowd but, later in the evening, there were plenty of tables. No reservations are taken.
The restaurant is very attractive. Contemporary, dark woods, huge windows overlooking Kirby, comfortable seating in almost a lounge like environment. There's an open kitchen, with a view to the brick oven from which many of the menu offerrings emerge. The attitude of the server was a little nonchalant, but we can't fault his timeliness. And he did graciously replace one of the signature wine cooler type drinks that we found too sweet.
We started with the oven roasted mussels. Baked in the oven in a copper pot in a white wine and herb infused broth, the mussels were tasty enough. To their credit (or detriment, depending on one's perspective), the broth was quite light, no cream in sight. We were looking for a litle more flavor, but we weren't filled up before our pizza arrived. We ordered Alto's version of the meat lover's pizza, topped with salami, italian sausage, and pepperoni, as well as mushrooms and provolone. Was it one of the best pizza's we've ever had? No. Did we scarf it down with no leftovers? Yes.
Will we race back when we need a pizza fix? Probably not. Will we go back when we're looking for a nice post-theater environment for a glass of wine and a bite to eat? Probably yes.
2400 Kirby (in the West Ave center at Westheimer)
713/386-6460
http://www.avaalto.com/alto/ |
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| Posted by CarlosandDebbi at | | | |
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This may be one of the harder reservations in Houston to obtain for a prime dining time, although that may change with summer upon us, and many of Up Restaurant's target clientele headed to cooler climes. Located in Highland Village on the third floor of what many refer to as the Cole Haan building, this restaurant is quite an ambitious endeavor by its owner who also owns Highland Village. The restaurant is very lovely, with a warm, contemporary, upscale decor. Kudos to the designer as there's not a bad table in the place, which has many booths and banquettes. There's also a large terrace, facing west overlooking the rest of the shopping center.
On the Saturday evening we dined, the place was hopping. The beautiful people, of all ages, appear to be flocking. Both the dining and bar areas were filled to capacity. We'd read on-line reviews about bad service, but our service was great. We were warmly greeted when we emerged from the elevator. Our reservation time was promptly honored. And the drink and food orders came quickly. The food (more later) probably a little too quickly.
Upon arrival, we were presented with complimentary flatbread and hummus. It was a very good snack with our drinks and, to the restaurant's credit, seconds and thirds were offered without asking. We shared the chopped tuna appetizer, which was a generously sized, nicely seasoned disc of fresh tasting tuna tartare served with flatbread. We aren't pizza afficianados, but we're enjoying sampling the fare from all the brick ovens opening for business in our city. The short rib and gorgonzola pizza was topped with a mound of fresh arugula, a kind of pizza salad. The crust was the very thin and crispy style; the short rib pieces were tender and the gorgonzola didn't overwhelm.
For an entree, we shared the crab cakes with a side of roasted brussel sprouts. We received two large crab cakes, mostly lump meat, appropriately cooked and very enjoyable. The roasted brussel sprouts had good flavor and carmelization, but they were way undercooked, and a trip back to the kitchen didn't help matters. The price point on the crab cakes was $38. The remainder of the entrees were similar priced, comparable to Brennan's or Mark's. Appetizers and pizzas were less pricey overall, in the low to mid teens. There's no dessert menu and the waiter recited some of the usual suspects (cheesecake, creme brulee) that didn't particularly entice us. But that's not really a criticism as we don't usually order dessert, and Up isn't catering to the diner that judges a place based on the pedigree of the pastry chef.
Complimentary valet parking (carefully wedged into parking spaces along Westheimer; look for the orange cones) is available and, given the restaurant's location, is almost required unless you want to park in the shopping center across Westheimer.
Would we go back with all the many great restaurants in Houston? Probably not soon. We're more into the food than the decor and who is air kissing who. That being said, we had a lovely evening.
3995 Westheimer
713/640-5416
http://uprestaurant.com/
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| Posted by CarlosandDebbi at | | | |
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Houston has another hot spot courtesy of the guys from Ibiza. The crowds are flocking to this new restaurant named after the River Oaks area zip code in which it is located in the former Tony Mandola's seafood restaurant on West Gray. Other than opening up the bar area and bathing everything in a contemporary white, the restaurant's layout is the same as its predecessor. Better head to Paris (or maybe Brasserie Max & Julie's) if you want old style French surroundings. The noise level was over the top, perhaps the worst of any Houston restaurant we've recently experienced.
No surly waiters here. We'd heard the service was shaky, but we couldn't fault a thing on a recent Friday evening. The wine list, presented on an iPad, was both intriguing and functional. It was easy to scroll through the many bottles (organized by type) and by the glass offerrings. The owners are known for their reasonable wine prices and, while we didn't thoroughly investigate the list, we found some inconsistencies in that theme, particularly in the wine by the glass pricing. No surprise there since many restaurants significantly mark up wines by the glass. We found a very fairly priced bottle of Heitz Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, "touched" our order, and the bottle appeared at our table with the appropriate glasses.
Food comes quickly, so be mindful when timing your order. We'd read that portion size was small, but we didn't feel that way. If you want bread, you need to ask for it. And the crunchy individual baguettes, served with a ramekin of butter sprinkled with sea salt, are worth the request. We shared an appetizer of steak tartare. The meat was of the highest quality and beautifully chopped; all the traditional familiar flavors were there, including a raw quail egg on top, although the dish had slightly too much pepper. For entrees, we had the roasted duck and Texas rabbit. The duck (breast and leg quarter) was nicely sauced and plated; unfortunately, the leg quarter was way underdone and required two trips back to the kitchen, which the waiter quickly and graciously accommodated. The rabbit was delicious. The dessert menu had a number of appealing items; unfortunately, we were too full to try one.
Reservations are a must, at least on weekends.
1962 West Gray
713/524-1919
http://www.brasserie19.com/
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| Posted by CarlosandDebbi at | | | |
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It's tough to know what to expect from a chef whose blog is "frenchcowboyhouston.com." But Philippe Schmit has garnered a reputation for great cooking and a somewhat brash attitude. Since leaving Bistro Moderne, he's been away from the stove blogging and working on his much-anticipated new restaurant that has now opened in the BLVD Place on Post Oak.
This restaurant has two levels, like its neighbor RDG, with a lounge on the main floor and dining on the second level. The lounge offers the now ubiquitous artisanal cocktails and bar bites. There's also a smaller bar upstairs where you can dine overlooking the open kitchen. An expansive open space, Philippe has a warm, contemporary vibe. It's hip but not pretentious. And ... drum roll .... you can hear yourself talk.
The service was friendly and accommodating. We were forewarned by the waiter and he was right -- the food came out very quickly, too quickly. (Although, surprisingly, it could have been warmer). We recommend that you space out your order. Upon leaving, the waiter let the valet know to have our car ready, which was a nice touch.
We tried a couple of the cocktails -- the Blessing (vodka, strawberry, pomegranate and lime juice -- a little too sweet) and the Texas Cowboy (bourbon, lillet and agave syrup -- yum). We moved on to the dish we try at every restaurant -- the fried calamari (we know... we need to move past our obsession for this decidedly non-foodie dish, but we are continually seeking perfection; in this case, nicely executed, but not a showstopper); berkshire pork ravioli with chorizo "smoothie" (ravioli were good but the chorizo flavor in the sauce was MIA); duck confit shepherd's pie (by far the best dish, rich duck in a delicious sauce, a very unique Anglo-Franco twist; served lukewarm, it was quickly replaced with a hotter version); and burgundy beef cheeks (a very good version of a classic French dish although a little more sauce would have been welcome, sided by an appropriately rich American classic mac & cheese).
Despite the glitches, there were many other items on the menu we'd like to try and we look forward to returning.
1800 Post Oak Boulevard
713/439-1000
http://www.philippehouston.com |
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| Posted by CarlosandDebbi at | | | |
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