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Resident in the new BBVA Compass building on Post Oak, Osteria Mazzantini is the latest offering from John Sheely, the chef-owner of Mockingbird Cafe. Located immediately adjacent to and north of the Old Navy shopping center, we had some trouble finding the place as there's no sign yet on Post Oak. But, once we did, we were quite happy.
The inside of the restaurant is on the smaller side. There's a nice sized bar area and an expansive outdoor patio that will likely be buzzing once we see cooler weather. Tables inside the restaurant are spaced close together, which might bother some diners. The noise level was very manageable (including hearing your neighbor's discussions). There's a bar menu and the now ubiquitous artisanal cocktails. (The manhattan style one was quite tasty.) Prices are comparable to other mid to high end Houston restaurants.
Upon being seated and ordering drinks, the complimentary bread service was delivered, complete with a yummy lardo butter and a high quality olive oil. There were many menu offerrings that we wanted to try, but, when we see bone marrow, we can't resist, so our appetizer choice was made. Served piping hot, with grilled toast (order extra) and sided with a vibrant salsa verde sauce, the bone marrow was a great start. We then tried the kale and sweetbread ravioli, with brown butter, parmesan and pine nuts. While we couldn't discern the sweetbreads, the ravioli were quite delicious. For our entree, we shared the osso buco. Richly sauced, served with the traditional gremolata and complete with a tiny spoon for the marrow, this was as good a version of this classic that we've had in a long time. But the dish was made particularly special by the parmesan risotto. Most restaurants can make risotto taste quite good by using copious amounts of butter and cheese, but the tricky part is in getting the right consistency. Osteria Mazzantini has that down better than most places.
Our reservations were honored on time, and the service was very good. The only glitch was that we apparently got out the door without receiving the complimentary mini-box of cookies. We used the free valet parking, but we understand they validate parking in the garage. This is a hot place right now, reservations are a must. Given the location, they'll be busy at lunch, and we've heard they'll also be doing a weekend brunch. Let's hope they can keep up the great execution.
2200 Post Oak Boulevard, # 140
713/993-9898
http://www.osteriamazzantini.com/ |
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| Posted by CarlosandDebbi at | | | |
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San Francisco/Berkeley (September 2013):
Chez Panisse -- finally made it to this Bay Area institution; went for both lunch and dinner, preferring lunch; lovely, comfortable setting, with an old house feel; we found the prices to be on the high side, even for the area; excellent wood oven roasted mussels and nicely done pizza at lunch; the 4-course prix fixe ($100 on weekends) dinner (different every night and posted a week in advance on the restaurant's website) was true to the place's reputation -- simple, with very fresh ingredients, well-executed: salmon crudo, fried squash blossom salad, wood oven roasted squab, and some type of berry/cake dessert; we may be in the minority and perhaps it was the particular night's menu, but we probably wouldn't make the trek across the Bay if we found ourselves in the area.
Flour + Water -- highly lauded Mission-area pizza and pasta place; casual, contemporary setting; very tough reservation, with long waits if you don't have one; we went for the tasting menu, with multiple courses, including many pasta dishes, although we didn't try the pizza; every course was very good; service was a little scattered.
SPQR -- lovely spot for Sunday lunch in the Fillmore Street area; reservations are a must unless there's space at the bar; wonderful biscuits, suckling pork confitura, chicken liver mousse, and pasta with blood sausage ragu.
Napa Valley (April 2013):
Auberge du Soleil -- we re-visited the site of our wedding 5 years ago to the day; lunched on the patio, and the weather, service and food were fabulous; this is upscale dining in St. Helena, with reservations required at lunch, particularly to sit outside; beautifully executed dishes (asparagus soup, lobster salad, seared halibut) with creative, interesting flavors and innovative touches, warranting the Michelin one star.
The Restaurant at Meadowood -- this was our special evening dining experience; Michelin three-starred, with chef who very recently won the James Beard award for the California area; georgous serene, contemporary dining room, amidst the wooded hotel property; wonderful, friendly service; personalized, handwritten welcome notes for each table; 8 course ($225) or 15 course ($500) tasting menu; very pricey wine list, with the wine pairings the same price as the meal; we were more than happy with the 8 course menu, which ended up being quite a few more courses; with a focus on creativity and innovation, varying with cold and hot dishes, highlights included whipped yogurt with black sesame, abalone liver, hot beef consomme served over frozen shaved beef fat, clams and caviar with lettuce and asparagus, sturgeon cooked in onion fat, and on and on; like French Laundry, this is a place foodies should try at least once
Solbar -- we didn't see any celebrities at this trendy, busy venue near Calistoga (reservations strongly advised), but we very much enjoyed lunch on the lovely patio; petrale sole soft tacos and an ahi tuna burger were delicious; also Michelin one-starred
Bottega -- Michael Chiarello's spot is as popular as ever in Yountville, just as good as our first experience; possibly the best pasta ragu we've ever eaten; comfortable, fun atmosphere; a great place for a group; tables book quickly
Farmstead -- our only disappointment after really enjoying this St. Helena restaurant on our last visit to the area; food was good but it didn't wow us; the burger was overcooked and the brick chicken didn't rival some of the better versions we've had of that dish
Redd Wood -- very popular, new'ish, casual venue down the street from the same chef as the much lauded Redd in Yountville; incredible fried calamari and great wood oven pizzas; very good pasta ragu (but not as good as Bottega); make reservations
Hog Island Oyster Company -- in Oxbow Market in the town of Napa; very casual, sit at the counter or outside; good (and pricey) grilled oysters; decadent dungeness crab mac 'n cheese; go for lunch or a snack
San Francisco (May 2012):
Frances -- very popular Castro-area bistro; tough reservation to get; menu is focused on seasonal ingredients with many items designed to share -- we tried baked clams and smoked bacon beignets; entrees were nicely done grilled quail, linguini with clams, and a side of spring onion and farro gratin; friendly, very accommodating service; small space, tables close together, bar area is first come first served for dining
Scoma's -- we couldn't resist returning to this Fisherman's Wharf spot; the oysters rockefeller and raw oysters were delicious, as was the whole roasted dungeness crab (once again) with garlic and olive oil; great service from seasoned waiters
Fleur de Lys -- a major disappointment; tasting menu (3, 4, or 5 courses) from nationally recognized French chef, Hubert Keller; overworked dishes, with too many disparate components, some items overcooked (petrale sole starter), some good flavors but nothing particularly impressive; restaurant obviously caters to special occasions, and we were seated in what appeared to be the two-top celebration area in a side dining room that lacked the lush beauty of the formal main dining area; polished but unfriendly service; multiple desserts (with the mignardises being one of the better executed items of the evening) appeared to be designed to give a good final impression when the rest of the meal didn't wow
Slanted Door -- one of the most popular restaurants in San Francisco per Zagat; billed as modern Vietnamese cuisine; lunched outside at the ferry building location overlooking the Bay Bridge; enjoyed the spring rolls, lemon grass pork shoulder vermicelli noodles, and chicken claypot; very good food, fresh flavors
Delfina -- another very popular Castro-area restaurant; also a tough reservation; crowded, close quarters but reservations were honored on time; very much enjoyed the warm olives, grilled calamari, roast chicken (a house specialty and deservedly so), and boar ragu pasta; next door was an affiliated pizzeria (no reservations) where the pizza looked quite delicious (and was judging by the mass of people waiting outside); skipped dessert for the fabulous ice cream at Bi-Rite Creamery (a San Francisco institution) just down the street
Napa Valley (December 2010):
Bouchon -- Thomas Keller's French bistro in Yountville; lively, warm atmosphere, traditional French menu; well executed dishes, but nothing super special; not as impressed as we'd hoped to be
Bottega -- Michael Chiarello's very popular Italian eatery in Yountville; large restaurant, with every table filled; reservations are a must although light plates are served in the bar area; great food (particularly the dungeness crab special)
Farmstead -- St. Helena restaurant focusing on locally sourced items; one of our new favorite spots in the area; everything we tried at lunch was delicious (cheeseburger, pulled pork sandwich, mac 'n cheese, french fries)
Auberge du Soleil -- went for Sunday brunch at this lovely, somewhat formal setting up the hill overlooking the valley; three course meal, with a variety of choices for each course; elegant service; everything was beautifully done; special occasion place (particularly for us since we were married there)
San Francisco (July 2006):
Gary Danko -- Zagat rated #1 in both most popular and food categories in San Francisco; very tough to get a reservation; you pick whether you want 3, 4, or 5 courses, and then select among a number of options in various categories; seafood items were particularly outstanding (notably, the poached oysters topped with a generous amount of caviar); we weren't as impressed with the meat and poultry dishes (lamb was particularly disappointing); the cheese tray was amazing; from start to finish, the service was some of the best we've ever experienced.
Scoma's -- lunched at this Fisherman's Wharf institution that is somewhat touristy, but has very good seafood; the whole baked dungeness crab in olive oil and garlic was particularly delicious, as was the pan fried petrale sole; we could have skipped the calamari.
Farallon -- upscale seafood restaurant in the Union Square area; also highly rated in Zagat; beautiful interior, complete with chandeliers shaped like jellyfish; enjoyed the seafood bisque and soft shell crabs; one of us even forewent seafood for duck which was great.
Napa Valley --
Redd -- one of the newer, trendy places to dine; it's a difficult reservation, so call well in advance; chef/owner was formerly chef at Auberge du Soleil; food was very good although not exceptional; fish entrée was overcooked.
Taylor's Refresher -- very popular walk-up burger joint; looks like a Dairy Queen, but even serves wine; great late afternoon snack spot for well prepared greasy food (try the Patty Melt, it will heal all that ails you) after a day of wine tasting.
Bistro Don Giovanni -- bustling Italian restaurant with a very pretty outdoor terrace; recommend reservations even at lunch; tried the risotto and pizza; food was fine but sitting outside was the best part.
Bistro Jeanty -- cozy French bistro; call well in advance for reservations; classic French fare, including such dishes as pigs feet and frog legs (neither of which we tried); interesting duck confit and goat cheese pate; cassoulet and coq au vin were very good versions of these traditional dishes. (If, like us, you didn't call exactly 60 days in advance at the appointed hour to snag one of the much coveted reservations at Thomas Keller's foodie temple, The French Laundry, you might also try Keller's bistro style restaurant, Bouchon.) |
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| Posted by CarlosandDebbi at | | | |
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Fish So Very Fresh
An Oasis In This Heat
This is MF Good
This sushi newcomer has made quite a splash as its chef/owner, Chris Kinjo, ports his magic from Atlanta to an unassuming strip center at the corner of Westheimer and Fountainview. Perhaps we were behind the foodie curve, but we first heard about this curiously named place when we read that a number of local chefs were touting the freshness of the fish and the chef's deft knife skills. That was quickly followed by Alison Cook's four star rating. Out we went one recent Saturday evening to sit at the sushi bar and try the Omakase (chef's pleasure) dinner.
Unlike Uchi or Kata Robata, this Omakase dinner was all about raw fish -- either sashimi or nigiri, no rolls. There are a few hot dishes on the menu, but this is a traditional sushi restaurant, not Asian fusion. And we had an amazing experience. From start to finish, the fish was fabulously fresh. While our helpful and efficient waitress gave us a dish of freshly grated wasabi, which was quite a treat, we only used soy sauce and wasabi on one of the many courses. Not sure how many dishes we had, we weren't counting, just eating. The initial dish was a delicious warm seaweed soup into which we stirred a raw quail egg yolk. The chef then started us off with a variety of sashimi dishes, simply presented, with little adornment. The salmon belly was a particular highlight. We'd read that the chef really shines with nigiri. The dewy fish lay on lightly formed grains of rice with a hint of wasabi and soy sauce, arriving with instructions from the chef to eat in one bite. Multiple bites came our way and we followed instructions well, enjoying everything we tried.
In the interest of journalism, we separately ordered the fried calamari for dessert. It was nicely done and, if variety is our goal on our next visit to MF Sushi, we'll consider ordering one or more hot dishes and perhaps one of the beautifully presented rolls we saw the kitchen turn out. But the real reason to come to MF Sushi is for the raw fish, served in all its pristine wonder.
5887 Westheimer
832/530-4321
http://mfsushihouston.com/
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| Posted by CarlosandDebbi at | | | |
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This quirkily named restaurant was recently opened in the former Bibas on West Gray in the Montrose area. A contemporary, elegantly casual setting, there's plenty of seating on an outdoor patio and in the indoor bar and dining area. There's valet parking and nearby street parking. After an initial discussion about our table location (no, our two couples didn't want to sit at a banquette style table in the bar), we were seated in the dining room. Only open a couple weeks, reservations were a must on a recent Saturday evening.
Like many restaurants nowadays, there are a variety of interesting (and well done) cocktails and a limited but perfectly acceptable wine list. Self-described as Southern Coastal Cuisine, the menu is extensive, varied and reasonably priced. While the offerings may not impress as super innovative, it's all in the execution. And there's definitely a place in the foodie world for well done, re-fashioned standards, with something that should appeal to most every diner.
We tried three of the starters -- grilled oysters, steak tartare and the crab cake. The former were tasty enough, although the topping on that day's preparation -- tomato, onion and parmesan cheese -- was quite heavy, despite the waiter's indication that it was "light" and meant not to overpower the taste of the oyster. The steak tartare was beautifully presented, and we appreciated that we could mix in the traditional fixings to our desired taste. The high quality of the meat was given a chance to shine through. The runny yolked fried quail egg sitting on top of the meat was an interesting twist, catering to those who are queasy about raw eggs. Our friends declared the crab cake to be very well done, lots of crab, light on the fillers.
Our entrees were all a success. Two of us tried fish dishes -- the whole fried flounder and the halibut cheeks. Both dishes were excellent, fresh fish, correctly cooked, and not overly sauced. The head and tail on flounder was flash fried (minimally battered) with an apricot glaze that worked well on the side. The pan seared halibut cheeks was a light dish, served with a choice of two sides that include a number of choices, such as grilled vegetables, asparagus, or grits. Those grits accompanied a cast iron skillet of seared quail that were declared by one of us as the best version of those little birds he'd ever had. The cheeseburger, with fries, pleased the carnivore and was cooked as requested.
We finished our meal with two desserts -- the peanut butter and chocolate tower (not enough of the dark chocolate exterior to our liking, more like a mound of just the interior of a Reese's Peanut Butter Cup) and, the better choice, a baked to order cookie platter. With 20 minutes notice, you get a variety of four cookies, served with a glass of milk. The macadamia white chocolate were so good that two more were ordered.
For having only been open a couple weeks and faced with a full dining room, the service was very good, and the kitchen was keeping up well. We didn't see much that needed improvement, so this new offering should be a hit right out of the box.
607 West Gray
713/529-5881
http://www.elevenxihouston.com/ |
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| Posted by CarlosandDebbi at | | | |
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Not exactly an out of town destination, it did take us a while to get outside the Beltway on Memorial to this much lauded pizza place. Open for a year or so now, this very casual, BYOB, made such a hit out right out of the box that it was up for best new restaurant in My Table's 2012 culinary awards. And, while it didn't win, it's been so successful that the owner is looking for locations inside the Loop.
Pizza making is practically a competitive sport nowadays, with so many new places opening or old ones putting in pizza ovens. While a wood burning oven seems to be a requirement, beyond that each place has its special preferences (frequently researched in the motherland, giving the owners an guilt-free opportunity to eat their way through Italy) for flour, tomatoes, cheese and, even, water. We don't profess to understand the nuances in flour types, but we do know what tastes good (at least to us). And Pizzaro's is pretty darn tasty.
Turned out in 90 seconds from the wood burning oven that heats up to 900 degrees, these pizzas are thin, slightly crispy and lightly topped. Pizzaro's does not do delivery, and they recommend against take-out. The pizza is best eaten immediately out of the oven.
Four of us concluded that four bottles of wine (the value of BYOB cannot be overstated) paired quite nicely with four different pizzas. (Salads are offered and likely are quite fine, but we'd made the trek for the good stuff.) The favorite of two of us was the Fino (olive oil, cured fennel sausage, goat cheese, garlic and mozzarella). But we also very much enjoyed the Polpette (tomato sauce, meat balls, ricotta and mozzarella); Campania (tomato sauce, roasted crimini mushrooms, artichokes, proscuitto, black olives and mozzarella); and Calabrese (tomato sauce, spicy sopressata, pepperoni, mozzarella and basil). The crust on the pizza is thin and delicate, a great taste, with just a slight softness in the middle and crisp around the outside, perfect for edge-eating and not just leaving on the plate as an afterthought. All ingredients were quite fresh and the toppings were well balanced on the pizza, not over-weighting the pizza but also not skimpy.
On the Friday evening we visited, the place was pretty busy, but the owner told us it was a quiet night. So, do as we did, get there early, open your wine, and eat a bunch of pizza. You'll be glad you did.
14028 Memorial Drive
281/589-7277
http://www.pizarospizza.com/
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| Posted by CarlosandDebbi at | | | |
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We've been fortunate to have had great weather for outside dining on the two evenings we've spent at this new spot on Richmond in the Montrose area. From Shepard Ross, the same restauranteur that owns Glass Wall, the focus of this place is on outside dining and drinking, going for the vibe that the owner remembers from his time growing up in Brooklyn. Hence, alot of open space, opposite the dining area, filled with bocce ball, croquet, badminton, picnic tables, and the like. Due to the venues immediate popularity, the outdoor bar service is being expanded and a food truck is soon to open in the games area. There are a couple fire pits we'd heard were for s'mores, although we haven't seen that use as drinkers and diners lacking reservations have sought a place to sit.
There's a small bar area and about 10 indoor tables in close quarters. Dining reservations are definitely required, specifying indoor or outdoor. We dined on the earlier side, and, on both evenings, despite a busy scene, our reservations were honored on time. (By the time we were leaving, the valet parkers were asking if you had a reservation.) Commendations to the on-the-ball hostess who clearly has things under control, understanding that the tables, particularly outdoors, are not going to turn as often as other restaurants as diners come to hang out and enjoy the patio scene. We've had very good wait service on both visits.
While we wouldn't call Brooklyn Athletic Club fine dining, the menu is more ambitious and varied than typical bar fare. We haven't had a bad dish. We've yet to see a table in our vicinity not order the short rib mac 'n cheese, whether as a starter (as it's billed) or as a small entree. And we've had it twice and, yes, it's very tasty and comes out piping hot. And we'll have it again. We've also tried the pork rillettes, which were enjoyable, nice for sharing, and benefitting from a little added salt. The cheese burger is a justifiably popular dish, sided with crispy thin frites, with optional bacon or a fried egg. We've also tried the pappardelle and meat balls, generously portioned, with good flavors, and a sufficient ratio of meat sauce to pasta (i.e., not skimpy on the sauce). The porkobucco, which, as its name inplies, is a slow cooked pork shank, was also nicely flavored (perhaps a little underseasoned), sided with a tasty mixture of braised brussel sprouts, mushrooms, fingerling potatos, and crispy bacon pieces. Unfortunately, the fat and gristle that are typical to the shank resulted in less edible portions than the initial hunk-o-meat presentation on the plate might have suggested.
Brooklyn Athletic Club is a great venue when the weather accommodates. We're not sure how things will go as we approach the summer months. The outside bar area should still attract the very casual, drinking crowd willing to sweat a little. We're not so sure about the dining crowd which, on both our visits, was quite diverse in age. While we've enjoyed the food and will return, we may wait until Fall as the indoor seating area is cramped (one friend called it claustrophobic). And the single person bathrooms (only one for each gender) need expansion, which we understand is underway with additional outside facilities being built.
601 Richmond Avenue
713/527-4440
http://thebrooklynathleticclub.com/
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| Posted by CarlosandDebbi at | | | |
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From the same folks that have Del Frisco's Steakhouse in the Galleria comes their new direction in dining in the West Ave complex. Located where Ava was formerly housed, significant renovations have resulted in one of the current "places to be" in Houston. This is a large space, with many tables for dining (including patios on the Kirby side and the interior of the complex) and an expansive bar area. Reservations are a must, at least on weekends.
Del Frisco's is not our favorite Houston steakhouse. We understand this is a more casual, less expensive concept being rolled out by the Del Frisco's folks (initially in Dallas), and we weren't sure what to expect. Our reservations were honored right on time which is a good thing as there was no room anywhere for waiting. The waitstaff was very busy, but service was good.
One of the selling points of this restaurant is its varied and extensive menu choices. If you want traditional steakhouse fare (at the same prices), there are a few steak offerrings. And plenty of appetizers, salads (appetizer and meal sized), and sandwiches and entrees (not at steakhouse prices). We dined with friends and tried two of the most popular appetizers -- the cheesesteak egg rolls and tuna tartare tacos. Del Frisco's Grille managed to elevate these ubiquitous items to a pretty high level.
One of the highlights of the meal was the kale & brussel sprout "Big Greens" salad. Chocked full of the aforementioned vegetables with toasted almonds, manchego cheese, dried cranberries, and a yummy creole mustard dressing, this salad alone is worth a trip to the restaurant. The entrees also impressed. There wasn't a speck left on one diner's plate of a very generously portioned serving of blackened texas gulf red fish (topped with fried oysters). The lamb burger was nicely seasoned and appropriately cooked, sided with crispy frites.
For what they're trying to accomplish, the Del Frisco folks are doing a very good job, and we look forward to returning. Get there when you can. Just be sure to make a reservation or expect to fight with the throngs for a seat at the bar.
2800 Kirby Drive
832/266-0464
http://info.delfriscosgrille.com/houston/
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| Posted by CarlosandDebbi at | | | |
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We'd heard good things about this ambitious new Bellaire neighborhood restaurant. Located in a strip shopping center that houses one of the areas long-time restaurants (Auntie Pasta), Costa Brava's food offerings have a decidedly upscale French or Spanish orientation. This is a small space, with reservations required on weekends. There's plenty of parking either in the front or back of the center.
We admit we're not always easy to please and can be critical diners. And, while being able to hear oneself speak, having a comfortable cozy vibe, and not worrying too much about what you're wearing, are definite positives, if the food doesn't excite us, we'll not likely return. Unfortunately, we weren't impressed with any of the dishes that we had. We're huge fried calamari fans, but the skimpy portion and average quality didn't do much for us. Given the Spanish leanings of the restaurant, we had high hopes for the paella, but, in addition to not being served in the traditional paella dish (more like seafood risotto in a pasta bowl), the lackluster spices didn't compliment the generous portion of nicely cooked seafood. The duck two ways (duck breast and confit hash) was also okay but not quite up to the mark. The confit hash was practically cold (literally, slightly colder than the room temperature of the restaurant), and we sent it back, only to have the whole plate put in some type of heater that proceeded to overcook the previously nicely done medium rare breast.
The dining crowd was definitely on the older side, and we're sure they'll continue to come for a small, comfortable place close to many residential areas. Perhaps the kitchen is trying a little too hard or perhaps the overall good press this restaurant has received, resulting in high demand, has caused some inconsistencies in the kitchen.
5115 Bellaire Boulevard
713/839-1005
http://www.costabravabistro.com/
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| Posted by CarlosandDebbi at | | | |
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The holidays got in the way of our reporting on The Pass, the upscale, tasting menu half of the hot, new restaurant -- The Pass & Provisions. Opened around Thanksgiving, we dined at The Pass in early December. While Provisions has a contemporary casual vibe, The Pass is urban chic, with lovely table linens, banquettes, and a champagne cart. Open to the kitchen, with the "pass" (that part of the kitchen where the plates are finished before transferring from the kitchen to the dining room) on display, the chefs conjure their magic, presenting dishes very different from anything we've experienced in Houston. Our closest comparison is Scott Tycer's short-lived Textile or perhaps a more upscale version of the ahead-of-his-time Randy Rucker's laidback manor. Maybe a more sophisticated, carnivore-oriented Oxheart. (Actually, we don't think there's much similarity between The Pass and Oxheart, but they are mentioned by some in the same breath, given that both restaurants opened this year, with a tasting menu concept and chefs with excellent out of town pedigrees.)
Enough with the comparisons. The Pass stands on its own as the most innovative dining experience currently available in Houston. Diners can choose from either a five ($75) or eight ($95) course tasting menu ($120 and $160, respectively, with wine pairings). While you're asked when you make the reservation whether you have any food allergies, this isn't the place to take a fussy eater prone to requesting substitutions or changes. And, unlike some tasting menus, there aren't choices within each course. We mention this only for the sake of our readers because we have no interest in interfering with Chefs Siegel-Gardner's and Gallivan's creativity. We're happy to let them do their thing and sit back and enjoy.
Of course, we went for the eight course tasting menu and one of us did the wine pairings. We've been very impressed with the wine program at Provisions, having been introduced to some new and interesting wines on our visits there. The wine pairings at Provisions also impressed, working very well with each of the dishes. And the service was impeccable.
The Chefs intend to re-work the menu periodically, but we'd guess the themes of each course may remain somewhat consistent -- Snacks, Truffles, Raw, Beef, Bread, Pig, Vegetables, Cheese, and Petite Fours. Every course was a visual and culinary delight, with multiple components, creating a lovely and delicious palette on the plate. Either the chefs or one of the sous chefs served each course, accompanied by a verbal description of the dish. Yes, there were truffles, caviar, and foie gras. but the chefs clearly have fun with these classic high end ingredients. For example, one of the Snacks was a tiny gelatinous cube flavored with foie gras and bourbon (appropriately named a "foie gras 'ol Fashioned"). The truffles were grated tableside on top of a soft cooked egg. The Raw course featured nori bucatini, uni and clams. The Beef course was "tar tar with marrow brioche." The Pig course featured headcheese and blood pudding. The Vegetable course was the most dramatic -- a burning rosemary branch was presented with a squash cake and, with a visible nod to molecular cuisine, tableside created (in a huge tureen) dippin dots that (thankfully) taste nothing like those available at Space Center Houston. And the Cheese course featured beautifully executed savory macaroons with three different cheese fillings.
Open only for dinner, a weekend reservation at The Pass continues to be hard to come by without about a months' wait. Get in line. It's worth it. And, taking nothing away from the Mandola and Pappas families, we need to cherish and nurture chefs and restauranteurs who are willing to bring this type of dining experience to Houston.
807 Taft
713/628-9020
http://passandprovisions.com/
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| Posted by CarlosandDebbi at | | | |
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UPDATED REVIEW: SEPTEMBER 2012:
Splendido -- located in the Chateau Hotel in Beaver Creek, right next to Grouse Mountain Grill; one of the Vail area's most highly rated restaurants on Zagat; lovely patio overlooking the mountains where we enjoyed drinks and could have eaten what looked to be a great bar menu cheeseburger, dinner menu is also served outside; equally lovely interior with live music; started with steak tartare and moved on to roasted rabbit (served three ways -- ribs, loin, and sausage), sided with mac and cheese, and buffalo steak diane; a wonderful experience that we'd highly recommend, on par with Grouse Mountain Grill (service perhaps a notch better there)
La Tour -- good as ever and popular as ever; reservations required for weekends; this was our third visit for dinner; same well-priced 3-course dinner as on our prior trips; dover sole was fabulous again, as were the roasted oysters cleverly served on a mini hibachi
Up the Creek -- a lovely, tranquil setting right on Goose Creek in Vail Village; we've lunched there on a couple visits; our 'go to' place when we arrive just off the plane from Houston, drinks in hand, sitting outside as we soak in the mountain air; well executed food and good service
Bonus Review -- Boulder, Colorado -- The Kitchen -- had a great dinner at this extremely popular, community-focused restaurant; casual in vibe and innovative in food; enjoyed crispy pig's ears, a charcuterie plate (select your own from a variety of meats, pates, and cheeses; we picked duck rillettes, chicken liver pate, and country terrine ), and pasta bolognese
FIRST REVIEWED -- SEPTEMBER 2008:
To escape the heat, we headed to the Vail area one recent weekend --
La Tour -- to celebrate its 10 year anniversary, this French restaurant featured a great 3-course dinner for $39; we loved the contemporary yet warm vibe of this place and thoroughly enjoyed our meal; for starters we had beautifully done crispy sweetbreads and beef carpaccio (improved with an extra touch of olive oil); we continued with the duo of lamb chop (nicely cooked medium rare) and braised leg of lamb (yum) and the sautéed dover sole (both of which required a fee supplement but well worth it); we finished with a strawberry rhubarb feuillette, which was decent but a disappointment compared to the rest of the meal, and a selection of ice creams on chocolate foam
Kelly Liken -- we had high hopes for this namesake restaurant of a chef recently named as a rising star by Bon Appetit magazine; this is a tough reservation, call well in advance; we were put off initially when we asked for a different table, were told none were available, and then 5 minutes later had a couple seated banquette style at a table right next to ours; this was one of those places where, although the service was not snooty, you felt they played favorites with the clientèle; we started with an overpriced, average tasting, and small portioned duo of a pulled pork tostada and pork belly; our entrées were rack of lamb and the chef's signature potato crusted trout, both of which were very good; one of the best parts of the meal were the sides -- morel potato hash and parmesan grits; we didn't have any dessert; on leaving, we got two blueberry muffins, a nice touch but with only about one blueberry per muffin; we much preferred La Tour and Grouse Mountain Grill; also, be prepared to spend well over $100 a bottle for wine, as they had a very small number (no more than you can count on one hand) of red wines below $100
Grouse Mountain Grill -- our one trip over to Beaver Creek proved a wonderful experience; we loved everything about this restaurant, from the gracious manager to the down to earth and very knowledgeable sommelier to our friendly and accommodating waitress; located in The Pines Lodge, the restaurant has a warm, comfortable atmosphere; this was everything we expected from Kelly Liken but did not receive there; we initially enjoyed a drink in the bar while they graciously put together a lovely table by the window; the food was great; we started with the ritz (cracker) crusted walleye (a unique dish that's a diner favorite) and continued with the pretzel crusted pork chops (a delicious combination) and venison loin, both of which were perfectly cooked with generous sides; there was a lot of food, and we were too full for dessert, which did look very tempting and which we look forward to on our next visit; if you have one restaurant that you can pick on your vacation in the Vail area, this is it
Alpenrose -- popular, longstanding classic German restaurant; other than the friendly service and pleasant outdoor patio, we weren't excited about the food; the weinerschnitzel was a marginal version of the Vienna classic; the reuben sandwich was good but nothing special that you couldn't find at an average deli
Bully Ranch -- very overpriced and average (located in the Sonnenalp Resort where we stayed -- get the B&B package as the breakfast buffet is great, you won't need lunch); the cheeseburger was overcooked and the fries were wimpy; the roasted chicken was dry and only a quarter of a small chicken (perhaps they used a guinea hen, still trying to figure out where they got a baby chicken), not the usual half chicken serving yet costing more then you would typically pay for a larger serving
Buffalo Restaurant and Bar -- on the drive west on I-70 over to Vail, just about half an hour outside Denver, is Idaho Springs; although touristy, we've twice enjoyed lunch at this restaurant (located on Main Street about 5 minutes off the interstate); as the name suggests, this casual spot features numerous items with (and without) buffalo; particularly tasty is the buffalo reuben; we weren't impressed with the overpriced onion rings; the Main Street shops aren't much, but it's nice to walk a little after the big meal before you get back in the car |
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