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We were somewhat inclined to write a two word review: Not Uchi. But that's unfair. Katsuya isn't striving to turn out the uber creative, intricately prepared dishes for which Uchi excels, and Katsuya isn't marketing to the same demographic. Katsuya hails from Los Angeles, touting its "master sushi chef" (Katsuya Uechi) and "design impresario" (Philippe Starck). Located in the trendy West Ave complex, Katsuya has been featured regularly in the social columns for its celebrity sightings.
Frankly, we were expecting to be more impressed by the design. Perhaps it's because Houston has not lacked for distinctive rooms in recent restaurant openings (Triniti, Uchi, Underbelly, Phillipe). There's a large four-sided sushi bar in the middle of the restaurant, surrounded by tables, with the walls lined by banquettes. We peeked into the lounge area, with its many white sofas, but we were at the restaurant far too early to check out the action there.
We had the multi-course Omikase dinner on our first visit to Uchi, so we wanted to give Katsuya the same opportunity. We appreciated our waiter's candor when he advised against Katsuya's Omikase dinner, which the menu said included all the chef's specialties. Indeed, very few of the items featured as specialties on the menu were served with the dinner. So, we embarked on a la carte ordering.
Like at so many places nowadays, cocktails are prominently featured. We found one of the specialty drinks -- the Burning Mandarin -- to be pleasant enough. We tried one of the signature dishes -- Crispy Rice with Spicy Tuna -- which turned out to be fried sushi rice cakes topped with tuna tartare that wasn't really all that spicy. (Our waiter had tried to steer us instead to the seared tuna with Japanese salsa.) We also tried the soft shell crab, which was not overly battered (a good thing) although a little soggy.
The highlight of the meal was another of the signature dishes -- miso marinated black cod -- beautifully cooked with a lovely flavor. The square of potato gratin on the plate tasted good but was also a little soggy. Our other entree dish -- Cajun halibut cheeks -- was dry and overcooked, the pieces too small to be cooked correctly when also trying to blacken the spiced exterior.
If it's fair to compare Katsuya and Uchi -- both of which arrived on the Houston scene at about the same time -- Uchi wins by a mile (about the distance between the two on Westheimer).
2800 Kirby Drive (West Ave Complex at Westheimer)
713/590-2800
katsuyahouston@sbe.com |
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| Posted by CarlosandDebbi at | | | |
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We waited a while to try Liberty Kitchen. We don't consider ourselves to be part of the restaurant critic world; we're never recognized, no special treatment, no offers to comp our meals. But it was somewhat off putting (and humorous, we admit) to hear that, when this restaurant first opened, they posted a sign banning Alison Cook from the Houston Chronicle. Seemed like a strange way to make one's entry into the Houston restaurant scene, certainly it suggested a sense of confidence, if not contempt, for what anybody else thinks.
Anyway, we made it there on a recent Saturday night. No reservations are taken, dress is very casual. Early in the evening, the place was full, and it was a diverse group. The Heights locals appeared out in force -- older patrons, families (this is a very kid friendly place, with kids' meals), young couples. We got lucky with a nearby parking spot, but we can see how parking could be challenging. For a casual place, we see no need for valet parking, which can be helpful but also appears to be veering out of control (note the new JerryBuilt Burgers on Holcombe).
There's plenty to like about the large and varied menu. And we have to admit that we wanted to try pretty much everything. With oysters in the name of the restaurant, we couldn't pass up a couple versions -- a raw oyster, garlic butter smeared, chargrilled in the shell, topped with a fried oyster (a fabulous dish we'll have again without question) and raw Gulf Coast oysters (nicely sized, very fresh). We moved on to one of the chalkboard fish specials -- chargrilled flounder (dusted with a house special spice rub), served on top of sauteed spinach. The fish was fresh and nicely cooked (perhaps a little dry). We also tried the Rodeo Reuben (spiced brisket, which was tender and smoky, with slaw, on grilled pumpernickel). Finally, we couldn't resist the Americana-style macaroni and cheese. We've had that uber-popular dish at many restaurants and this was one of the better versions we've tried.
A note about the service. Ours was very good, and, on a number of occasions, the manager also came by to check on us. (We do have a small gripe with having been charged almost the full price for the slaw to substitute it for the fries that came with the sandwich when the slaw was regularly priced at only 50¢ more than the fries.)
We liked the place so much that we almost went back again the next weekend, but, despite our anonymity, we take our responsibility of trying new restaurants seriously, so duty called.
www.libertykitchenoysterbar.com
1050 Studewood
713/802-0533 |
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| Posted by CarlosandDebbi at | | | |
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When Bon Appetit identifies yours as one of the most anticipated restaurant openings in the country, the pressure is on. There's no denying that a lot of hype has swirled around Chris Shepherd's announced plans, when he left Catalan last Spring, to open his own restaurant. The construction and related delays only fueled the excitement.
Now opened at the intersection of Westheimer and Montrose, Underbelly shares its quarters with the beer-focused bar, Haymarket, although Underbelly has its own good sized wine bar (no cocktails), and a bar menu that's separate from that in the dining room. Both the bar and dining room were packed on the Saturday evening we dined. The beautifully redone building, with its warm, contemporary wood tones and high ceiling, is a very inviting venue. There's a large, open kitchen along one side of the restaurant, complete with glass encased salumi storage. (The charcuterie is only available on the bar menu.)
Our reservation was honored on time, although we went early in the evening, and there were ample servers and bus staff moving like clockwork. In fact, perhaps a little too efficiently. There wasn't a dish that we ordered (save one) that didn't come within two minutes of ordering. And we noted that tables which ordered a number of starters (as the menu encourages) received everything at once. This was a frequent occurrence at Catalan, so we knew from experience to space out our order. Perhaps because we dined early in the evening and the server was looking to turn the table a couple more times, there was a discernible sense of rushing us through our meal.
Did the food knock our socks off? Unfortunately, no, although there were a couple near shining moments (yes, it's March Madness time). The menu is designed for the table to start with the appetizer/small plate sized items (our waiter recommended 2-4 for two persons), and then move on to the family-style entrees in the hunk-o-protein category. Consistent with the chef's emphasis on featuring locally sourced and seasonally available products, we understand the menu changes regularly. (The menu posted on-line as we write this review is not the same as when we dined a week ago.) And, with a conscious nod to Houston's multi-cultural food scene, the menu features a variety of cuisines.
The highlights of the evening included the lamb papusas and Korean goat and dumplings. Both dishes included braised meat, tender and deliciously spiced. The homemade dumplings, almost like noodles, made for a unique dish. The housemade burrata (interestingly, perhaps curiously, sided by whole grilled fava bean pods that you popped open) was pleasant but lacking a depth of richness. (Sorry for the comparison, but we have to give the nod here to the version at the Catalan-replacement, Coppa.) We finished with a special that evening -- Akaushi ribeye -- nicely trimmed and perfectly cooked, sided by roasted baby fingerling potatos and sauteed onions. (For $50, perhaps the plate could have included a few more than three potatos.)
Next time (and there will be a next time), we'll go for one of the family-style entrees. We're suckers for pork in pretty much any form, so braised pork collar and crispy pork shank not to mention goat shoulder (on the menu the night we dined) sounded very enticing.
1100 Westheimer
713/528-9800
http://underbellyhouston.com
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| Posted by CarlosandDebbi at | | | |
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We started calling as soon as reservations became available in mid-January and were able to secure a Saturday night spot about a month later. To suggest this much-anticipated offshoot of the very popular Austin restaurant has the foodies flocking is an understatement. And, judging by the wait the evening we were there, if you don't have a reservation, don't bother, unless you have a lot of patience and wear comfortable shoes. There's not a large bar, so it fills up quickly. Our reservation was honored within 20 minutes which we considered pretty good under the circumstances.
The menu is extensive and, other than the sushi and sashimi offerings, while describing the ingredients, the menu doesn't provide a lot of insight as to the dish. Our server was very accommodating, but he likely didn't have the time to review each of the menu items in detail. Given this was our first visit, we decided to go all out and order the Omikase 10-course tasting menu ($180, serving two, no alcohol included). Most of the items were from the daily specials. Virtually every dish was quite amazing. Each dish was artfully served with interesting culinary twists. And at least a couple of the dishes were, to borrow from a popular Food Network show, the best thing we ever ate (at least in recent memory).
We started with an innovative beet salad that included icelandic yoghurt and both fresh and dehydrated beets. This was followed by five raw courses -- kusshi oysters (wonderfully briny with lychee granite), mejina (opaleye) and isaki (threeline grunt) nigiri, and flounder sashimi. The raw items were pristinely fresh (we didn't touch the soy sauce or wasabi all night), with the candied quinoa adding an interesting twist to the flounder. We were then served an item from the regular menu -- Yokai Berry -- salmon cubes with blueberries, fried kale and yuzu -- a refreshing flavor combination.
While we expected nothing less than ultimate freshness in the raw fish offerings, we weren't sure what to expect from the other cold and hot menu items. Diver scallops were slightly overcooked, one of the only missteps we noted all evening. We'd heard the Jar Jar Duck was amazing -- crispy duck breast, with duck confit, served in a jar of which, when opened, rosemary smoke wafts out. We found this a little gimmicky and not as impressive as we'd hope (particularly noting the $30 price tag for not much duck in the jar). But we couldn't have been more thrilled with the next two daily special items -- halibut and wagyu short rib. The halibut, cooked sous vide, was sauced with a shrimp coconut milk and garnished with candied onion. The flesh of the fish was as moist and rich as any halibut we'd eaten. But we were practically crying when we tried the short rib. The waiter said it had braised 72 hours, which we think was, again, via sous vide; but how the chef accomplished the tender, rare, smoky melt in your mouth goodness might better remain a mystery so we can continue to dream about the dish. Our dessert course -- carrot rose ice cream (not one of the better uses of carrots), sided by mini creme brulees and sitting on top of marcona almonds -- was pleasant enough, but the components didn't seem to work together.
uchi is not just sushi and sashimi. Whether you call it Asian fusion or something else, the creativity, skill and attention to detail goes beyond most anything we've seen in Houston. It comes with a price tag; uchi is not an inexpensive evening out, although the prices are more modest for the tempura items and rolls. Portion sizes are small; uchi's plates are tapas sized, designed for the table to share a number of dishes. So, go forth and share. Just be sure to call ahead.
904 Westheimer
713/522-4808
http://uchirestaurants.com/houston/
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| Posted by CarlosandDebbi at | | | |
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Much anticipated, Triniti opened in the last couple months to packed crowds. The restaurant is beautiful, a warm modern setting, with an open kitchen at the back. There's a nice sized bar that was busy on the recent Saturday evening we dined. There's also an outside lounge area. Attire was varied, but there were quite a few men in jackets and women in dressy attire. The noise level was very manageable. Service was a little spotty, but we had no big issues.
We're enjoying the trend in artisanal cocktails and tried two particularly good ones at Triniti. The cocktail menu is divided between classics and those with a modern twist. We tried one from each, consistent with our latest bourbon theme -- two styles of manhattans. Both were delicious. We later had a glass of Malbec. We didn't focus alot of time on the wine list, but there appeared to be a well rounded selection of wines by that bottle that were not overly pricey.
What comes to mind when thinking about the food at Triniti is that it's stylized. The executive chef-owner, Ryan Hildebrand, was the chef at Textile, which served some of the more creative food we've seen in Houston as of late. But the place didn't last long. It was pricey, the portions were small, and there weren't alot of selections, not your typical Houston restaurant. Although Houston is the 4th largest city in America, it's still has a relatively small foodie crowd, unlike New York, Chicago, and San Francisco, which helps sustain these types of restaurants. We enjoyed our meal at Triniti, but we wonder whether the crowds will continue to come. The menu is more expansive than at Textile, but this is foodie-style food -- interesting flavor combinations in smallish portions.
The evening started with a beautifully prepared salmon tartare amuse bouche. It had great rich flavor, absent any fishy taste. Next up were the appetizers. We tried the veal broth with foie gras dumpling. It was very good but didn't wow us. (One of us is a stickler for food being hot and the broth, poured separately at the table, could have been warmer.) The brussel sprout appetizer, served with dungeness crab and chorizo, was an enjoyable few bites but also didn't knock our socks off. We moved on to the pheasant and salmon entrees. The salmon was very fresh and nicely cooked (topped with crispy skin), sided by a mushroom asparagus mix and a smear of sauce on the plate. The pheasant may have been the highlight of the meal -- two grilled (but still moist) breast pieces and confit-style dark meat over smoked fingerling potatoes.
Reservations are a must, at least on weekends. Complimentary valet parking is required unless you want to park on one of the side streets.
http://www.trinitirestaurant.com/
2815 South Shepherd
713/527-9090 |
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| Posted by CarlosandDebbi at | | | |
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Another entry into the locally sourced, farm-to-table, concept, this time from a Haven alumni, Roost Restaurant appeared on the scene a month or so ago on Fairview in the Shepherd-Montrose area. Small and casual, Roost doesn't take reservations and is BYOB on Monday and Tuesday evenings. We got there on the early side on a recent Saturday evening and the tables were full, although we didn't wait long to be seated. For those who need to wait, there's a two or three seat bar area inside and picnic tables outside. There are a handful of parking spots directly in front of the restaurant, otherwise it's street parking in the neighborhood.
Only beer and wine are served. The wine list was modestly priced, and we enjoyed a NICE Malbec. Of note, Nice is the name of the winery. We recently learned this winery is owned by some local guys who seek out grapes from around the world and are producing some well-rated wines. The mark-up was less than twice retail.
The menu appears to change on a regular basis. As we sipped our wine, we nibbled on the bread service (a $6 charge ) -- a warm, crispy slow dough loaf with your choice of two spreads. We enjoyed the chicken liver spread and foie gras butter. We moved on to the daily soup, a wonderfully flavored shrimp bisque. Creamy, but not overly rich, this soup was made with care and was the highlight of the evening. We were disappointed by the crispy pork belly with bbq beans. The pork belly was tough and not crispy, and the beans were lukewarm. The local goat cheesecake was pleasant but didn't knock our socks off. The charcuterie board we saw at the table nearby looked enticing for another visit. We were also tempted by the freshly made donut holes that appeared to be a very popular dessert.
We want to give this restaurant a chance. It's an unpretentious place that's trying hard to turn out creative locally sourced food at modest prices. The most expensive entree (the flatiron steak) was only $21. The waitstaff couldn't have been friendlier and the service was prompt. Give it a try.
http://www.facebook.com/RoostHouston
1972 Fairview Street
713/523-7667
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| Posted by CarlosandDebbi at | | | |
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We've been remiss in not writing about this new restaurant that we've now visited twice. When we heard that the owners (the guys from Ibiza and Brasserie 19) were converting the former Catalan location to an Italian restaurant, we had to wonder what they were thinking in that Houston has more than enough Italian dining opportunities, with the now ubiquitous brick oven turning out various versions of "authentic" Italian-style pizza. But, judging by the crowds, we have yet another Italian success story.
Reservations are a must, particularly on a Saturday evening. Despite the crowds, our reservations were honored on time, as was as our requested preferred seating. We've had excellent service on both visits. We started with nicely done cocktails, both times the same -- a ginger spiced manhattan and a blackberry martini -- since we enjoyed them so much the first time. And, true to the owners' reputation, we found a bottle of Chappellet Mountain Cuvee priced about the same as retail. (It was available on both our visits, so we hope we haven't sparked a run on it or a price increase.)
We've tried three appetizers -- whipped mortadella crostini, pate, and burrata. Not sure we'd have the mortadella (Italian bologna) again, but we're glad we tried it. The housemade pate was good but a little on the sweet side; both choices that evening had a dried fruit spin. The housemade pickles were very nicely done. The burrata was a standout. Generously served and very creamy, the cheese was delicious. Sided by a coppa-topped salad and Campari cherry tomatoes, it was an all around winner.
On our second visit we tried the much ballyhooed pizza (imported flour, special water, etc.). We couldn't help but be intrigued by a pizza called "coppa 'ham & eggs,'" billed as featuring spicy air-dried pork shoulder and quail eggs. It just didn't work for us. We dare to suggest that there wasn't much flavor to the pizza. We assume the tomato sauce (slightly sweet, simple) and minimalist cheese are intentional to the style, but the pork topping also lacked flavor, not to mention spice. The quail eggs were a fun novelty but didn't add much to the taste. We'll head to Dolce Vita, maybe Alto or Piola, for pizza and stick to the other items at Coppa.
We'd heard the chef earned her job by making spaghetti carbonara, so we had to try it. We found the dish very enjoyable, perhaps a little peppery, but richly sauced by the egg and cheese mixture, loaded with lots of salami (not the typical pancetta, but it worked). There are a large variety of other pastas, many homemade, that have looked very good when they've passed our table.
The restaurant does not feature many entrees, only four or so each night, emphasizing appetizers, pizza, and pasta. But one of the entrees -- the chicken "under a brick" -- was so good that we had it both nights. The pizza oven is turning out something for which we'll be back. Served on top of parmesan polenta, the lemon and herb infused baby chicken was plump and juicy on the inside, with the crispy skin that's a required component of brick chicken. Probably the best version of this dish we've ever tried. (Sorry, but this one puts Carrabba's and Grotto's versions to shame.)
Catalan was one of our favorite Houston restaurants (we're greatly looking forward to Underbelly), but we're impressed the Ibiza guys could do it yet again. And with Italian, nonetheless.
5555 Washington
713/426-4260
http://copparistorante.com/ |
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| Posted by CarlosandDebbi at | | | |
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The folks who own the well-regarded Ray's in Fulshear have ventured inside the Loop to the former location of Ziggy's Healthy Grill. The restaurant has taken off like a shot, packed from its opening. Reservations are highly suggested, at least on weekends. They've done a very nice job reconfiguring the space into a warm, contemporary environment, with a large open kitchen. There's a bar area that includes seating for dining.
We started in the bar with a couple signature cocktails featuring sorrel -- the confetti lemon drop martini and the lemon sorrel manhattan. We enjoyed both but not sure the addition of sorrel to these classic cocktails improved matters.
Our reservation was honored on time. Service was a little harried but nothing to complain about. The house-made foccacia bread, served with olive oil, sundried tomato, and sorrel pesto dipping sauces, was a welcome start to the evening.
Consistent with the farm to table concept and the use of locally sourced ingredients, the menu changes regularly as the starters we tried -- the ceviche cocktail, rabbit risotto, and the clams and mussels in ancho chile broth -- aren't currently listed on the website. The ceviche was the better of the two, light and tasty. The chile broth was rich and flavorful and, to the dish's credit, it was not overly heavy. Just not sure it worked all that well with the seafood. We then shared the tomato salad with local cheese; the basil oil dressing was nicely done, but the tomatoes were lacking in taste. (It's tough to find a good tomato, even in restaurants priding themselves in using local ingredients; the exception recently was a tomato salad at Reef.) For an entree, we shared the pan seared flounder on barley, which was the highlight of the evening. Piping hot, beautifully cooked, this was a great dish.
We look forward to returning, particularly given the ever changing menu.
2202 West Alabama
713/677-0391
http://www.sorrelhouston.com/ |
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| Posted by CarlosandDebbi at | | | |
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We'd been hearing great things about this now one year old restaurant south of town. GPS in hand, we headed down 288, landing at a modest location just off the main drag in what appeared to be downtown Alvin. Befitting its locale, there's nothing trendy or hip about this restaurant. Just good food, based on local offerrings, produced by an up and coming young chef, Jason Chaney.
We tried two starters -- country fried oysters and stuffed quail. The fried oysters, which have justifiably received alot of great press, were expertly fried served on top of house cured thick slab bacon, topped with house pickled jalapenos. Yum. Those jalapenos were so tasty, we had to ask for more. The sausage stuffed quail was flavorful, well sauced, and very nicely done. One of the better versions of that dish we've had as of late.
There are a variety of standard menu items, and then the restaurant offers a number of meat and seafood specials, based on what's available that day. These items are served simply grilled or sauteed, no sauces and no sides. The Kobe flat iron steak was absolutely delicious and perfectly cooked. The sauteed duck breast was also perfectly cooked, but the lack of any sauce put a damper on the dish. We requested that the chef add anything he thought would work, but nothing appeared on the plate. The mac-n-cheese was a very good but not great rendition of this uber-popular side.
Immediately next door is an open air hamburger joint owned by the same folks. It looked a little warm the evening we were there, but the family-friendly atmosphere likely makes this a popular destination in this small community.
We made a reservation for a Saturday night which was advisable. Parking is right in front of the restaurant (yea, no valet!). Our waiter was a local kid who managed just fine. The wine choices were limited but reasonably priced.
We may not make it back soon, but it was certainly worth the trip to check it out.
113 East Sealy Street, Alvin, Texas
281/585-2272
http://barbedrose.com/ |
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| Posted by CarlosandDebbi at | | | |
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CLOSED AUGUST 2011
We were way past due getting our butts out to Tomball to try Bootsie's Cafe. We'd heard such great things about the place and were already familiar with its chef, Randy Rucker, previously at Laidback Manor and a brief stint at the Rainbow Lodge. We ended up arriving the night that the just shuttered restaurant was having its staff and friends appreciation dinner. We had to write this review because we were welcomed so graciously and fed quite wonderfully, without any charge. And we didn't know a soul in the place (and they didn't know about this website); they were just being hospitable.
Given the circumstances, there's no point commenting on the decor or service or how long it took us to drive out there. We'll get straight to the food as we assume it's indicative of what the chef (and his team) will bring out at the new place (see further details below). We loved everything we were served from the beef and vension tenderloin (both very well cooked) and served with some of the best tomatoes we have ever had in Houston, to the whole fried snapper and braised pork shoulder (nicely cooked, tender and well seasoned), the brisket en croute, the corkscrew pasta with ragu, the smoked trout mousse (which was amazing, served on a chilled spoon and cleverly accessorized), the watermelon/cucumber granita, and a liverwurst sausage (enjoyed by the one of us that doesn't typically enjoy liver). And the sweets -- a savory wholewheat shortbread cookie with lemon curd (just awesome, could not stop eating them), oatmeal/chocolate chip bar, lemon cake, and peach crisp (another great dessert, served piping hot).
We know this restaurant had a tough time making a go of it in Tomball (probably too ahead of its time for the clientele), and we sorely wish we'd make it out there sooner. (We understand that a different incarnation of Bootsie's will be taking its place.) In the meantime, the chef, Randy Rucker, is teaming up with an investor to open a new restaurant in Houston's Museum District. We'll be eagerly awaiting the new restaurant and will make sure not to wait to get to it. |
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| Posted by CarlosandDebbi at | | | |
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