We've been fortunate to have had great weather for outside dining on the two evenings we've spent at this new spot on Richmond in the Montrose area.  From Shepard Ross, the same restauranteur that owns Glass Wall, the focus of this place is on outside dining and drinking, going for the vibe that the owner remembers from his time growing up in Brooklyn.  Hence, alot of open space, opposite the dining area, filled with bocce ball, croquet, badminton, picnic tables, and the like.  Due to the venues immediate popularity, the outdoor bar service is being expanded and a food truck is soon to open in the games area.  There are a couple fire pits we'd heard were for s'mores, although we haven't seen that use as drinkers and diners lacking reservations have sought a place to sit.

There's a small bar area and about 10 indoor tables in close quarters.  Dining reservations are definitely required, specifying indoor or outdoor.  We dined on the earlier side, and, on both evenings, despite a busy scene, our reservations were honored on time.  (By the time we were leaving, the valet parkers were asking if you had a reservation.)  Commendations to the on-the-ball hostess who clearly has things under control, understanding that the tables, particularly outdoors, are not going to turn as often as other restaurants as diners come to hang out and enjoy the patio scene.  We've had very good wait service on both visits.  

While we wouldn't call Brooklyn Athletic Club fine dining, the menu is more ambitious and varied than typical bar fare.  We haven't had a bad dish.  We've yet to see a table in our vicinity not order the short rib mac 'n cheese, whether as a starter (as it's billed) or as a small entree.  And we've had it twice and, yes, it's very tasty and comes out piping hot.  And we'll have it again.   We've also tried the pork rillettes, which were enjoyable, nice for sharing, and benefitting from a little added salt.  The cheese burger is a justifiably popular dish, sided with crispy thin frites, with optional bacon or a fried egg.  We've also tried the pappardelle and meat balls, generously portioned, with good flavors, and a sufficient ratio of meat sauce to pasta (i.e., not skimpy on the sauce).  The porkobucco, which, as its name inplies, is a slow cooked pork shank, was also nicely flavored (perhaps a little underseasoned), sided with a tasty mixture of braised brussel sprouts, mushrooms, fingerling potatos, and crispy bacon pieces.  Unfortunately, the fat and gristle that are typical to the shank resulted in less edible  portions than the initial hunk-o-meat presentation on the plate might have suggested.

Brooklyn Athletic Club is a great venue when the weather accommodates.  We're not sure how things will go as we approach the summer months.  The outside bar area should still attract the very casual, drinking crowd willing to sweat a little.  We're not so sure about the dining crowd which, on both our visits, was quite diverse in age.  While we've enjoyed the food and will return, we may wait until Fall as the indoor seating area is cramped (one friend called it claustrophobic).  And the single person bathrooms (only one for each gender) need expansion, which we understand is underway with additional outside facilities being built. 

601 Richmond Avenue
713/527-4440
http://thebrooklynathleticclub.com/

From the same folks that have Del Frisco's Steakhouse in the Galleria comes their new direction in dining in the West Ave complex.  Located where Ava was formerly housed, significant renovations have resulted in one of the current "places to be" in Houston.  This is a large space, with many tables for dining (including patios on the Kirby side and the interior of the complex) and an expansive bar area.  Reservations are a must, at least on weekends.

Del Frisco's is not our favorite Houston steakhouse.  We understand this is a more casual, less expensive concept being rolled out by the Del Frisco's folks (initially in Dallas), and we weren't sure what to expect.  Our reservations were honored right on time which is a good thing as there was no room anywhere for waiting.  The waitstaff was very busy, but service was good.

One of the selling points of this restaurant is its varied and extensive menu choices.  If you want traditional steakhouse fare (at the same prices), there are a few steak offerrings.  And plenty of appetizers, salads (appetizer and meal sized), and sandwiches and entrees (not at steakhouse prices).  We dined with friends and tried two of the most popular appetizers -- the cheesesteak egg rolls and tuna tartare tacos.  Del Frisco's Grille managed to elevate these ubiquitous items to a pretty high level.

One of the highlights of the meal was the kale & brussel sprout "Big Greens" salad.  Chocked full of the aforementioned vegetables with toasted almonds, manchego cheese, dried cranberries, and a yummy creole mustard dressing, this salad alone is worth a trip to the restaurant.  The entrees also impressed.  There wasn't a speck left on one diner's plate of a very generously portioned serving of blackened texas gulf red fish (topped with fried oysters).  The lamb burger was nicely seasoned and appropriately cooked, sided with crispy frites. 

For what they're trying to accomplish, the Del Frisco folks are doing a very good job, and we look forward to returning.  Get there when you can.  Just be sure to make a reservation or expect to fight with the throngs for a seat at the bar.

2800 Kirby Drive
832/266-0464
http://info.delfriscosgrille.com/houston/

We'd heard good things about this ambitious new Bellaire neighborhood restaurant.  Located in a strip shopping center that houses one of the areas long-time restaurants (Auntie Pasta), Costa Brava's food offerings have a decidedly upscale French or Spanish orientation.  This is a small space, with reservations required on weekends.  There's plenty of parking either in the front or back of the center.

We admit we're not always easy to please and can be critical diners.  And, while being able to hear oneself speak, having a comfortable cozy vibe, and not worrying too much about what you're wearing, are definite positives, if the food doesn't excite us, we'll not likely return.  Unfortunately, we weren't impressed with any of the dishes that we had.  We're huge fried calamari fans, but the skimpy portion and average quality didn't do much for us.  Given the Spanish leanings of the restaurant, we had high hopes for the paella, but, in addition to not being served in the traditional paella dish (more like seafood risotto in a pasta bowl), the lackluster spices didn't compliment the generous portion of nicely cooked seafood.  The duck two ways (duck breast and confit hash) was also okay but not quite up to the mark.  The confit hash was practically cold (literally, slightly colder than the room temperature of the restaurant), and we sent it back, only to have the whole plate put in some type of heater that proceeded to overcook the previously nicely done medium rare breast.

The dining crowd was definitely on the older side, and we're sure they'll continue to come for a small, comfortable place close to many residential areas.  Perhaps the kitchen is trying a little too hard or perhaps the overall good press this restaurant has received, resulting in high demand, has caused some inconsistencies in the kitchen.

5115 Bellaire Boulevard
713/839-1005
http://www.costabravabistro.com/

UPDATED REVIEW -- OCTOBER 2012

We've now dined at Provisions on a number of occasions and have enjoyed everything we've tried.  Highlights included the roast suckling pig for two, served in a Staub cast iron pot, sous vide'd and then finished in the oven, on top of flavorful noodles and sausage.  We also enjoyed the brandade (salted cod) and roasted salsify, hamachi crudo, and a number of the ham o'day's (Provisions' take on a charcuterie plate).  This place has been packed every time, and reservations are a must, although the full menu is available in the bar, which has ample seating for drinking and dining.  Consider ordering each course separately as the food comes when it's ready in the kitchen, which can result in everything being served at the same. 

FIRST REVIEWED -- SEPTEMBER 2012

Opened only a week or so, Provisions is half of the much-anticipated new venture from the dynamic chef duo of Terrance Gallivan and Seth Siegel-Gardner.  Known around Houston for their Just Eight project and pop-up dinners, the chefs have quite a pedigree (Gordon Ramsey, Heston Blumenthal, Marcus Samuelsson).  They've cleverly renovated the former Gravitas location (be sure to check out the restroom) -- half of the restaurant is the more casual Provisions and the other side will house Pass which, not yet opened, will be a fixed price, multi-course, chef's table style offering.

There is an active bar scene, fueled by a creative cocktail menu, very interesting wines, and a number of craft beers.  Food is also available in the bar.  Kudos to the sommelier (and our well informed waiter) as we tried four different wine varietals from Germany, Italy, and Greece we'd never heard of no less tried.  A Greek red -- Xinomavro, Kir-Yianni --particularly impressed us.   Three ounce pours are available at half the price of the full glass, making for a great opportunity to try a number of wines. 

There are many menu offerings, and we're already planning a return visit with friends.  (The suckling pig for two (really four) served to the pair next to us is calling our names.)  Dining early and not too hungry, we couldn't come close to doing the menu justice.  We tried the burrata pizza -- an interesting twist which featured an olive oil and garlic roasted pizza bread, sided by a bowl of oozing burrata and roasted tomato designed to spread on the bread.  One of us was close to licking the bowl.  Our next item was the entree of pan seared branzino in a bowl of mussell-parsley-ginger puree with potato batons.  The fish was fresh and deftly cooked, with the vibrantly green broth a delicious touch.  We shared a dessert -- the intense lemon pound cake sided by laurel bay ice cream (yes, bay leaf ice cream, and it worked).  Not too sweet, this was a nice touch to the end of the meal.

Get thee to this restaurant, but make a reservation.  Provisions is one of the hottest tables in town right now.

807 Taft Street
713/628-9020
http://passandprovisions.com/

UPDATE -- SEPTEMBER 2012

Perhaps we had a sixth sense that the Houston Chronicle's Alison Cook was about to give Underbelly four stars (which occurred last week), but we knew we needed to get back to Underbelly to give it another shot.  Together with some foodie friends who'd also been somewhat underwhelmed with their recent experiences at Underbelly, we set out for what our friend dubbed "Chris' Last Stand."   I am happy to report that all of us were far more impressed than we were on prior visits.

Even Alison Cook acknowledged that this restaurant isn't for everyone, including many foodies, but that didn't affect the crowds on a recent Saturday evening.  Our reservation was not honored on time, but we only had to wait about 20 minutes.  Service was prompt, although our waitress was not as informed about the dishes as we'd have expected ("it's leg of lamb, the kitchen doesn't test the temperature").  Wine was very reasonably priced, water glasses were regularly refilled.  There are no extras thrown in -- no complimentary bread, no cookies with coffee (which is only offered as regular, no decaf, no cappuccino).

But enough about the niceties, we'd come for the food.  As has been written by many commentators, the menu, which constantly changes, has small plates (some smaller than others) and then "family-style" dishes.  The intent is to share.  We tried a couple appetizer sized dishes -- Wagyu beef skewers (with Texas field peas) and coppa (with goat cheese, green tomato and garlic chips).  The dishes were beautifully executed and tasty.  (Unlike Ms. Cook, we didn't find the wagyu skewers to be overly salty.)  Particularly impressive were the side items, including the wonderfully fresh field peas and the nifty dehydrated garlic chips.

We moved on to two family style dishes -- leg of lamb (sided with sauteed kale and roasted squash) and porchetta (served on a spicy slaw).  Four confirmed carnivores all agreed the leg of lamb was one of the best we'd ever had and perfectly cooked to medium rare.  This dish is an excellent example of the quality of the ingredients used at Underbelly.  The porchetta (pork shoulder wrapped around a sausage mixture) was also delicious.  The kale, squash and slaw could not have been more fresh and well-seasoned.

An overall observation -- serving sizes are not large, even the family style dishes basically serve two at best.  We thought we'd have leftovers, with four persons ordering two family style items.  Not a chance.  We could have easily ordered and polished off a third "family style" dish.  Our waitress had clearly underestimated our needs when suggesting the table order 1-2 starters and one family style item.   Another friend  mentioned that when they dined at Underbelly, their table of four had to order a third family style dish because two weren't sufficient.  


FIRST REVIEWED -- MARCH 2012

When Bon Appetit identifies yours as one of the most anticipated restaurant openings in the country, the pressure is on.  There's no denying that a lot of hype has swirled around Chris Shepherd's announced plans, when he left Catalan last Spring, to open his own restaurant.  The construction and related delays only fueled the excitement.

Now opened at the intersection of Westheimer and Montrose, Underbelly shares its quarters with the beer-focused bar, Haymarket, although Underbelly has its own good sized wine bar (no cocktails), and a bar menu that's separate from that in the dining room.  Both the bar and dining room were packed on the Saturday evening we dined.  The beautifully redone building, with its warm, contemporary wood tones and high ceiling, is a very inviting venue.  There's a large, open kitchen along one side of the restaurant, complete with glass encased salumi storage.  (The charcuterie is only available on the bar menu.)

Our reservation was honored on time, although we went early in the evening, and there were ample servers and bus staff moving like clockwork.  In fact, perhaps a little too efficiently.  There wasn't a dish that we ordered (save one) that didn't come within two minutes of ordering.  And we noted that tables which ordered a number of starters (as the menu encourages) received everything at once.    This was a frequent occurrence at Catalan, so we knew from experience to space out our order.  Perhaps because we dined early in the evening and the server was looking to turn the table a couple more times, there was a discernible sense of rushing us through our meal.

Did the food knock our socks off?  Unfortunately, no, although there were a couple near shining moments (yes, it's March Madness time).  The menu is designed for the table to start with the appetizer/small plate sized items (our waiter recommended 2-4 for two persons), and then move on to the family-style entrees in the hunk-o-protein category.  Consistent with the chef's emphasis on featuring locally sourced and seasonally available products, we understand the menu changes regularly.  (The menu posted on-line as we write this review is not the same as when we dined a week ago.)  And, with a conscious nod to Houston's multi-cultural food scene, the menu features a variety of cuisines. 

The highlights of the evening included the lamb papusas and Korean goat and dumplings.  Both dishes included braised meat, tender and deliciously spiced.  The homemade dumplings, almost like noodles, made for a unique dish.   The housemade burrata (interestingly, perhaps curiously, sided by whole grilled fava bean pods that you popped open) was pleasant but lacking a depth of richness.  (Sorry for the comparison, but we have to give the nod here to the version at the Catalan-replacement, Coppa.)  We finished with a special that evening -- Akaushi ribeye -- nicely trimmed and perfectly cooked, sided by roasted baby fingerling potatos and sauteed onions.  (For $50, perhaps the plate could have included a few more than three potatos.)

Next time (and there will be a next time), we'll go for one of the family-style entrees.  We're suckers for pork in pretty much any form, so braised pork collar and crispy pork shank not to mention goat shoulder (on the menu the night we dined) sounded very enticing.
      
1100 Westheimer
713/528-9800 
http://underbellyhouston.com